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I am into building my third steel string. One of the things that was awful on number 2 was oversanding the edges and ends of the headstock. I have attached a pic - embarassed to do so, to be honest.
I was aware during the finishing stage that it was an issue, but I just found it very difficult to level. So while the need for less aggressive sanding on the edges is pretty obvious, I wondered if anyone had any other suggestions that helps manage this. The picture also shows that it has happened on the left underside edge as well, though this is not as bad as the top left.
Previously I would shape the headstock pretty early in the next building process (as per Cumpiano book). But I have held off from doing that, thinking that sanding the veneer down to a fine and level finish while I have some extra meat on the sides as protection might be sensible before final cutting/shaping of headstock.
Any other advice?
Thanks. Frank.

Sanding blocks…
Get some PSA 2 3/4" non-load sandpaper, make yourself 2 3/4" x 6 sanding blocks out of 3/4" ply (Baltic would be the best) and with a little attention you'll be sanding flat forever. You can also make smaller blocks out of scrap for the top of the peghead, smaller areas etc. A small machinist square will help you maintain perpendicular as well.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

...and make sure it is sanded flat and level before it goes on. For headplates and heel caps I have them sanded flat to 150 before they go on, after that no aggresive sanding is needed, just a little touch up with a block.

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David White, Toronto

"All my favourite singers can't sing."

And don't use the blocks with a layer of foam rubber on them. In my mind, I figured it would help level out my own variability (which it probably does on large flat areas like a top or back), but going over edges like that it ends up exaggerating the problem.

Miek

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Mike Lindstrom

Hi Frank... excellent advice from Laurent. I would add... Make sure you use new sandpaper for this... worn paper makes you tend to apply more pressure then is necessary. Then instead of just removing scratches you end up removing material.

long

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"No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it's not the same river and he's not the same man.” -Heraclitus of Ephesus

Unidirectional sanding also helps me keep it even (with a hard block).
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Another tip I've found useful. Don't ever get more than about 25% of the width of the sanding block over the edge of whatever you're sanding. Better yet, keep it to just 1/8-1/4" of sandpaper/block over the edge. If you sand with more extending over the edge, you are moving the maximum pressure right on top of the edge, and with less surface area, so you start sanding very quickly. I've also found that wrapping the paper very tightly, or using PSA paper just the width of the block, as Laurent suggests, helps. If the paper isn't wrapped very tightly around the block, it wraps around the edge, and starts to round it off very quickly.

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Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

Thanks everyone for your comments - All of that makes sense.
Hoping to do a much better job this time round.

I believe I had it all pretty flat to begin with, but after putting in an inlay and cleaning that up without really watching my technique, I suspect that is where I lost it.