Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi all,

I have been spending time joining and planing test tops to get ready for my "real" top See below (the test top is against the wall). Anyway, I have my Lutz OM top (thx Shane!) joined and thicknessed to about .145 (using hand planes, scrapers and ROS). I know alot of folks install the rosette thinner, but I was seeking advice on whether .145 is too thick, or can I go ahead and install the rosette. I leveled and sanded the top (with 120 grit).



My plan is to practice installing on my test top first, then, hopefully, do it right on the "real" top (btw, the "test" top is a test top because when joining, i forgot to pay attention to the runout per John Mayes video. My other test tops have all been flawed, and was purposely test tops )

Thanks!

Glenn

I don't think 145 is too thick at all. I've usually thickened each half to around 170 or as close as I can to get a clean surface. Joined, then sand down to around 150 trying to take as little off the top of the top as I can. Taking too much off the top of the top may cause bookmatch issues on bearclaw or figured redwood. Install rosette, sand down the top of the top till the rosette is just clean. Then remove material from the back of the top until Im at my thickness.

Yep Glenn buddy I agree with our pal Zach and you could install the rosette now. Once you have it installed and leveled thickness the top, what ever method you use, from the back taking great care not to dent the front.

Zach & Hesh & Todd are right!

Enjoy your Lutz top!!
I have used them for a few years now and they are cut right and seasoned well !

mike

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Mike Collins

Thanks!

One follow-up question. I am going to use my Rossette jig that Sylvan made for me awhile back (and my PC 310). Any suggestions on which bits to use and where to get them? I have searched the archives, and I found Todd's recommendation for:
- 1/16 end mill (CET Direct)
- 1/8 Spiral Downcut (recommendation on where to get?)
- 1/4" Spiral Downcut (recommendation on where to get?).

I plan to make a wood rossette (mucho figured Sycamore from Bob C) and BWB purfling (fromShane). I am using Figured sycamore bindings (EIR B&S, so I thought the rosette would look nice in sycamore. However, I do have spalted maple and burl maple as well).

Thx!!

Glenn

Probably not the cheapest place, but LMI has them (and since I occasionally need to order other things from them anyways I get them there; it gets cheaper because I save on the combined shipping, which is a big issue for us overseas folks...)

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Are you referring to these end mills?
http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Rout%2FShape%2FDrill&NameProdHeader=End+Mills

Thanks!!

Glenn

Yup!

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

What Arnt said - as for size that depends on how much material you want to hoark out at once. The bigger one is stronger but I don't know that these break, I suppose that they do but I have not broken one - yet. I use a 1/8" myself and take multiple passes.

You gotta check out Carbide.com.

Click Router Bits, Solid Carbide Router bits, Spiral flute, and set the options (or "all") in the dropdown boxes. You will get plenty of choices, great prices, and great service. (no, I don't work for them)

Dennis

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Dennis Leahy
Duluth, MN, USA
7th Sense Multimedia

Thanks to all!!

I ended up adding the 1/8 and 1/4 bits to an LMI order that I was planning on making - a little extra $, but more convenient (and shipping was essentially taken care of since I was placing an order regardless). Hopefully in a few days when I receive the bits I can practice and start my rosette.

Now to figure out how to thickness the rosette material to the desired thickness ... Which brings up a question now that I think about it - what thickness to you make you rosettes (prior to installation), and how deep do you generally route?

Thanks again!

Glenn

Glenn buddy I make mine anywhere between .060 and .070. I like to have around .050 of rosette embedded in the top when everything is at final thickness.