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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 4:19 pm 
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I been doing sound board experiments and have been attaching and removing tops on and off on an existing guitar. I've been using Titebond, but think hide glue may make removal a little easier, especially an very thin tops that are crack prone.
Any tips on using hide glue for attaching the top to the rims. I'm kind of a slow gluer (is that word? misspelled for sure).
Thanks

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 4:50 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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How about fish. When cured its very similar to hide, but you can take all the time you want when gluing. I use fish for everything and I am slow too. I like to spread the glue well and let it soak in the wood a little, then add some more (tryingt o avoid starving) before I attach the pieces, and then wiggle them around etc. and all this would be very hard with hhg (and probably unneeded but oh well)

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 6:25 pm 
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ToddStock wrote:
I
If there is any question in your mind, old TB does not stick to new Titebond, and while hide will stick to old hide, it will not stick to TB.



will fish stick to fish?
Thanks

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 6:39 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Jim my friend a number of OLFers attach top and back plates with HHG but it requires some very good planning, practice, and depending on your method jigs as well.

The trick is to get the viscosity of the glue as such so to permit slightly more open time. JJ does it and will probably weigh-in here, Colin too. Also Spanish classical builders were known to set the guitar on fire to increase the open time........

I have also seen it done where the builder lays the bead, snaps the top that is perfectly fitted into place, and then lowers a caul that covers the entire rim area, not unlike a toilet seat........ :D and then applies the desired amount of pressure.

Anyway it can be complicated to do well but has been mastered by some of our pals here on the OLF. Using Fish glue is a good idea in my view too and acoustically similar to using HHG.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:28 pm 
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Last edited by TonyFrancis on Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:28 pm 
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Thank for the replies guys.
I think I'll do little sections at time working around the top as Tony suggest and use binding tape to clamp with. This is much different than my usual method, which is actually similar to the Collings photo, only no press, I use a bunch of wing nuts to clamp the foam lined caul down with.

Todd, I can remove the titebond like you suggest, it just seems that hide glue is easier. How hot do you get your spatula? I mean roughly, boiling water type of hot or a lot hotter?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:21 pm 
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Fish glue is really quite sticky (you can stretch little "spider webs" easily 2 feet)
Mike Collins gave me some and I have used it on a number of operations. It's nice to have another option. I'd use it for most things, unless production speed is an issue. Takes a number of hours to set. I haven't tried to disassemble it yet...

Btw Hi Jim and Todd!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 11:56 pm 
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ToddStock wrote:
... and each one need to be flossed to remove the TB residue from both back and brace...


Hey Todd, could you explain that technique? What is 'flossing' and how do you do that?

Thanks!

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Alain Moisan
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:09 am 
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Jim_W wrote:
I think I'll do little sections at time working around the top as Tony suggest and use binding tape to clamp with.


Another method is to brush HHG on the rim and plate, assemble and then heat a small section with a cloth iron, clamp, heat the next section, clamp and so on.

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