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I'm not going to put binding on my Weissenborn Style guitar (my first build) that has a spruce top and walnut back and sides. I would like to know how to round off the edges. What kind of sanding block do you use (foam, rubber, etc...) and what kind, and grit sandpaper do you use? Or, is there some other tool that can be used? I have a router but wouldn't think of using it. Pics below.

Thanks for all you help.

Ron M.

If you're going to do it by hand, first thing to remember is that sanding where the curves run with the grain, such as the widest part of the bouts, will go much faster than across the end grain, such as near the tail, especially so with spruce. But you probably knew that. I learned it when I got my first oval soundhole without even trying.

I start with a new piece of 80 grit, about a 1/4 sheet, folded to three thicknesses to give it some rigidity, but not too much. I'd start with the back, because it's probably a harder wood with more homogeneous grain. Position a work light so that it will cast a shadow on the edge. Hold the sandpaper so that the middle of three fingers provide the force. Holding the paper at about 45°, sand gently until you have a bevel that goes down to half the thickness of the back or top. Use the shadow to gauge your progress. Curve the paper appropriately at the curves so that you avoid a small contact area.

You're about halfway there now. Switch to 100 grit, fold it to three thicknesses, then knock down the edges of the 45° bevel, rounding them until you get a good blend. Work down to your desired grit. Don't go past the thickness of the plate on the sides - the rounding shouldn't extend past the plate. Also, try for a definite end of the flat area and start of the curve, not "tapered," unless you want a home-made look. Keep some stiffness in the paper to avoid ripples from the grain, especially on spruce.

Nice looking instrument so far. Good luck, post pics!

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Ron buddy your Weiss is looking excellent!

Pat gives very good advice.

I just use 120 grit tri-folded and ending up in about a 2", 3 layer thick square. I start with knocking the edge off at 45 degrees and then start rounding. It a visual thing for me sanding, comparing, sanding, etc. Once I have the shape that I want I finish up with 220-240 grit also tri-folded.

For those of us who are not building Weissenborn guitars it's a good idea to put your neck on first, make some pencil lines where the fretboard sits on the binding, and then use some low tack masking tape to tape up to and inside these lines. This prevents you from rounding over the bindings where the neck joint/fretboard meet the body and eliminates any resulting gap.

I would use that router with a bearing guided 1/4" round over bit set just to take as much of as you want-try a it on a scrape piece first.
This would be much easier and so fast you'll wonder if it's really done !

mike

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Mike Collins

Thanks Pat for the detailed advice, and the compliment, i appreciate It.

Thanks for outlining your method as well Hesh, and for the compliment. believe me when i say i made some mistake, but nothing i can't live with.


Thanks for your reply Mike. I'm just trying to avoid a disaster since this is my first and i'm not that comfortable with power tools. I only trust routers on plywood when building jigs, but, I will probably try your method one day when i feel more confident with power tools.

I round mine with a scraper and finish off with sandpaper. pretty easy to do...

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

Peter,

How do you avoid rippling at the tail on the top? Or is it just not an issue?

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Freshly sharpened scraper and go slow.Has never been a problem for me.

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com