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Can anybody show me the proper way to string up a classical bridge with 6 holes?

It would also be nice to see the difference between a 6 hole, a 12 hole, and an 18 hole stringing method.

I have searched the web to find a "standard" method, but there seems to be several ways of doing it??

Which method works best and looks best too?

Please consider this "this idiot's guide to stringing a classical"

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Reguards,

Ken H

For six hole:
Ken, the wound strings ends that are completely wound tight go through the bridge in this method.
Low E,A and D strings through the hole leaving a couple inches at the back of the bridge.
With the guitar shown as in picture, the extra at the back of the bridge is brought around clockwise under the string through the front and back around under the loop and behind the tie block. Holding the end under the loop, pull the string in front of the brige tight to catch the end under the loop and against the block.
G,B and High E loop the end around counter clockwise under the string at the front of the bridge and wind over and under the loop created (at least 3 times for the G, 4 times for the B and 5 times for the E) and while holding the loops pull tight from the front.
If done properly all your string ends should be pointed toward the bass side of the guitar.
Twist the string ends at the rollers so they loop over and under the string as it is wound tight.

Thanks David!

From all of the descriptions I have seen ont he net, yours makes more sense than any of the others. Much appreciated!

_________________
Reguards,

Ken H

Here's a good visual tutorial on David Schramm's website demonstrating a method described by John Gilbert.

http://www.schrammguitars.com/tutorial.html

One of the things I always do is take a match and burn the top 3 string ends until there is a ball about twice the size of the string diameter. This helps keep the string from slipping through the bridge.

I second the Schramm posted method, for neatness and efficiency. I have been using that now for about a year on my 6 hole guitars. However, David's method is the traditional standard, and works very well. Just make sure you put at least 3 wraps on the high E string, and make sure the last tuck is over the corner of the tie block, on the face nearest the tail. Melting a little ball on the end of the string is good insurance to keep the knot from slipping, even with three wraps. Depending on the string, they can still slip, without the ball, and make a nice mark on the face of the guitar.

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Waddy

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Sound Clips of most of my guitars

It looks like Dave Schramm's method for the treble strings is quite similar to the bass string method that I've described with the melted "ball" end added to keep the treble strings in place.
For my own guitars, I've moved to the 18 hole design. Not the easiest to make but certainly the most likely to eliminate those nasty string dents that Waddy describes.
My only problem with the Schramm method is that you can't take the strings off at the bridge while leaving them on at the peg head end. Often in building a guitar I'll do this to go at a final rubbing out of the top once the finish has hardened......and considering how I hate new strings and their need to stretch, I like to leave the same set on through the adjustment and final tweaking of the action and finish.

http://www.guitarsbydavidlaplante.com/

I was doing that with my 18 hole bridge, until I had one that I put back on slip. I don't know what caused it, but the E string slipped right out of the tie. Fortunately the 18 hole bridge slowed down the whiplash to a point where it did not do any damage. The funny thing, well, peculiar, was that it didn't slip immediately. I now melt the ball on the treble strings for the 18 hole bridge.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Thanks for the info guys!

My flamenco is almost ready to string up (after a polishing) so I'll be trying out your methods soon. I guess you all have also seen that there are several ways to string one up, and that is what was confusing me. I'll do my best to make it all work, and remember to make the string balls too.

Thanks again!

_________________
Reguards,

Ken H

I haven't tried these before, however, I like the simplicity of the product. I like simple...

www.bridgebonebeads.com

There was a discussion over at the delcamp classical guitar site last April about them discussing the yay's and neigh's.

Ray

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Guitar Building = Continuous Improvement Process

This sort of thing can be a good solution to the problem of having had to lower the action on a guitar to the point of the string not breaking over the bridge saddle sufficiently.
The traditional stringing methods loop the string under itself pulling it upwards and reducing the break over the saddle.
Luca Waldner has also developed some little metal plates which enable the same sort of thing.




http://www.guitarsbydavidlaplante.com/

Here's a bit of a different take on the 18 hole bridge. The single hole row is at the top rather than at the bottom. Works a bit differently than the standard.

I like how it positions the string ends in the tie. I also like the bone plate on the tie-block. Must require a deep slot between the saddle and and tie-block.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

if all else fails, you know they make nylon strings with ball ends right?

my preffered method is when the left over of the string at the bridge proceeds tucked under then next string knot, looks snug and tidy.