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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 6:27 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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OK. , Thanks for the responce Tony.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Good to hear Todd. The play I was referring to isn't in the pivot pin but the adjusting threaded rod. I was thinking that there might be a little play where the locking nut was and the two nuts on the other side of the middle piece. I was thinking that the nut had to have some space so that the rod could spin freely there. I'm not sure if I'm explaining what I mean clearly or not. Are most of you using the PC310 for this jig?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:44 pm 
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Chris, I use a makita (don't know the #) on mine. Here's a couple pictures of the new one I just made

Attachment:
circle cutter 003.JPG


Attachment:
circle cutter 006.JPG


I think the base of the PC310 is smaller and only requires 3 bolts for mounting so the circle cutter base can be smaller. As you can see on mine, I have 4 bolts much like many laminate trimmers have and they would interfere with the guide rods so I made mine a bit wider and run the guide rods outside of the trimmer base to avoid the mounting bolts.

I now understand what you are asking. The two lock nuts riding against the middle arm which the pivot rod is attached to. Because the arms (for lack of a better term) are made from UHMW or phenolic or.... they have some sliptivity to them (like that word? sliptivity?) so what I do is just snug up one of the nuts (it sucks the other nut up the arm) till there is no play but make sure that I can turn the threaded rod. There is no issue as long as it's set up right.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 8:59 am 
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Chris Paulick wrote:
Arnt, where did you get your polycarbonate? I like the clear base for routers and your's looks pretty nice. Is the bearings idea a non issue as to the free play that might be in the pivot pin adjustment?


Chris, its 15 mm acrylic. Some people don't like that way it machines and recommend polycabonate for stuff like this, I don't find it particularly difficult to work with though.

My pivot pin is 8 mm, and I doubled up the acrylic in the part where the hole for the pin is as I figured it might develop some slop there. I also use a work board under the guitar top when I use this jig, and it has a matching 8 mm hole for the pivot pin. So far, everything feels very tight and solid with this set up and I haven't felt a need to beef it up with bearings.

Oh, and remember to clamp the top to the work board before you cut the sound hole...

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:36 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Just finished it up. Video to follow sometime this week, I hope. 8-)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 3:56 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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If anyone is interested I just posted a YouTube tutorial on making a Wells/Karol router base .
viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=18858
Might be a little boring for some of you.


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