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 Post subject: silver and gold inlays
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 7:32 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:10 pm
Posts: 19
Location: Athens, Tx
First name: Bryan
Last Name: Lafleur
City: Athens
State: Tx
Zip/Postal Code: 75752
Country: US
Anyone have any suggestions for inlay filler for silver and gold? I've been using metal dusts mixed with thick shellac. It works decent. I tried using System 3 with the same dusts and they turned green. I called the rep and he said it can't be used with metal dusts because of ph problems. Any other options out there?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:59 pm
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First name: Dennis
Last Name: Kincheloe
City: Kansas City
State: MO
Country: USA
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If it's a single piece of metal going into a piece of wood, then I'd match the filler to the color of the wood instead.

If it's multiple pieces of metal that must fit together precisely, then if you can't get a gapless fit just by shaping the pieces, I think the next best thing would be to solder them together and inlay as a unit. But you need a pretty hot torch for that.

Have you tried packing the gaps with metal dust and then dropping CA on it?

Or depending on what your inlays are like, you could redesign them to where there's a purposeful line of wood between the metal pieces, so you can inlay them one at a time and not worry about precise fit, and use wood colored filler for any gaps around each piece.

How's about some photos of what we're dealing with?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:27 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:04 am
Posts: 39
Location: SW FL Gulf Coast, USA
Beautiful instruments, Bryan, and beautiful sounding, from what I heard on YouTube. I've owned a Rivoli piano accordian with very dry voicing for years, but I really want a bandoneón, and what I really really want is to build one. And the dryer and wheezier the better.

I'm unclear on how you're doing your silver and gold inlay. Is this wire or sheet inlay? And what gaps are you needing to fill? And are you using actual silver and gold, or silver and gold-colored metals?

On instruments as fine as yours, I'd think pure silver (.999 FS) or at least Argentium sterling would make it quite easy to fill, as the metal can move or stretch to accomodate your excavations. The same goes for high carat golds. If you did need to add a filler, then more of the same material in powder form could be worked in and burnished, but then you'd need to coat it with clear lacquer.

Perhaps I'm completely missing what you're asking, though, so let me know and I'll try to suggest something more apt.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:53 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:10 pm
Posts: 19
Location: Athens, Tx
First name: Bryan
Last Name: Lafleur
City: Athens
State: Tx
Zip/Postal Code: 75752
Country: US
I'm sorry, I didn't explain myself very well. I use the filler to fill the logo engraving, so I've been using metal dust mixed with a liquid. I haven't gotten brave enough to try actual inlays with solid materials, but that's coming. Pretty amateurish compared to some of the fine stringed instrument inlay work I've seen done by folks on this forum, but that's where I'm at for now.

When I said silver and gold, I was referring to colors, not material.

A bandoneon would be an interesting build. Not many of those in my world, but I have a Polish friend who has one and I couldn't resist taking it apart to see how it works. Lots of mechanical work.

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www.lansegriseaccordions.com


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 1:34 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:04 am
Posts: 39
Location: SW FL Gulf Coast, USA
blafleur wrote:
I'm sorry, I didn't explain myself very well. I use the filler to fill the logo engraving, so I've been using metal dust mixed with a liquid. I haven't gotten brave enough to try actual inlays with solid materials, but that's coming. Pretty amateurish compared to some of the fine stringed instrument inlay work I've seen done by folks on this forum, but that's where I'm at for now.

Okay, now I get it. You may wish to experiment with mica powders. They are wonderfully inert and versatile, mixing with an extraordinary range of vehicles and media. They won't oxidize or tarnish (turn green or black) like bronzing and other metal powders.

One brand that's widely available is Jacquard Pearl Ex Powdered Pigments. I've mixed 658 Aztec Gold (a muted shade that doesn't jump out) into damar-rich encaustic, acrylics and other resins with excellent results. I've also used their 655 Super Copper and 664 Super Bronze for some applications. Pearl Ex is compatible with all types of epoxy, by the way.

http://www.jacquardproducts.com/product ... x/powders/

When you do move on to other techniques and metals, you should try piercing silver and gold sheet. All you really need is a jeweler's sawframe and blades, a small drill, and a couple fine-cut needle files. It's way easier than you probably think. Here's a great place to learn about it:

http://www.ganoksin.com/

Search The Orchid Archives - Entire for piercing, sawframe, sawing, inlay, and so on. There are also text and video tutorials in the Ganoksin library that cover this technique.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:36 pm 
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Walnut
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Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:10 pm
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Location: Athens, Tx
First name: Bryan
Last Name: Lafleur
City: Athens
State: Tx
Zip/Postal Code: 75752
Country: US
Awesome, David. Great links. Thanks a lot.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:15 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:23 am
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First name: Corky
Last Name: Long
City: Mount Kisco
State: NY
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Why not send Craig Lavin a note to get his perspective. He's always happy to share info and if anyone knows how to do it, Craig will.....


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