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Wes, is that bloodwood binding?

4 over several hours but usually just 3 with a minimum 30 min between, fan aids drying but I try to wait 45min to 1hr if schedule permits.

15 min coats but I've done up to 18-20. Really depends a lot on your application thickness. I usually sand partially level and start drop filling any gaps after the 3rd session and nothing coarser than 600 grit after the 12th.

I've polished at 100 hrs but now try to wait 7 full days or more to get the hardest cure.

yes thats bloodwood binding ...I really like the look of it!!! I have used it ac couple of times

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MK5acoustics.com

Thanks Tim!

Wes, how does it hold up? Any fading (oxidation) over time? Gonna get some bloodwood from the wood supplier. That is nice.

Mike

Not sure how it holds up, I have only been building for a couple of years, maybe some of the experienced luthier's could chime in, however I did have one piece splinter ! I bend it on the mold with a blanket and probably got the piece to dry, not sure but other than that piece no other problems.

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MK5acoustics.com

I also use the Target WB shellac as a sealer before EM6000 to warm up the tone and as a barrier coat. It beats going to nitro to avoid the blues, visually speaking.

Again... Thanks guys. Great stuff!
Hey Mike;
I have only used bloodwood for bindings once, on my own Sappele / Euro 000.
I believe it has faded some over the past 7 years, but it may be my imagination. Still looks great against the Sappele.
It's a bear to bend, if there's any runout. Check the edges for runout & keep the worst area in the lower bout, if possible. The good thing is, CA will glue the bindings back together, almost invisibly.
I tried to use bloodwood to bind a tight Venecian cutaway & gave up after beating my head against that wall for HOURS!
I bought some binding stock from LMI a few months ago & it looks very nice. Almost no runout. Hoping for better results, next time.