Official Luthiers Forum!

I had it in mind to 'fume' the white oak in my next build. Nowhere have I found a comment as to (1) is 25%-30% ammonium hydroxide required, and if so, how much? or (2) is over-the-counter ammonia usable, and if so, for how long and how much to use?

Third question, in the event that (1) is the only practical solution except for the very high cost, how does one go about staining a guitar body? And the order of operation, i.e., when to apply the stain, and what to watch out for after staining?

Besides that, I'm a regular expert!

Thanks, folks.

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Peter Havriluk

I fumed one earlier this year using household ammonia. Using three little cups half filled with ammonia I placed them and the completed body in a clear plastic bag which I rigged so the plastic wouldn't touch the wood. After about 6 hours it looked like it had done as much as it was going to do. Wear a respirator mask when dealing with the fumes is my best advice.

I've used regular household ammonia for fuming with decent results. I'm told there is a more concentrated 'professional cleaner's' grade that can be gotten from some office supply places, but I haven't tried it. The chemical company refused to sell me blue printer's ammonia, which is quite toxic.

I worried at first that the water content in regular ammonia would be a problem but that has not been the case. I guess that the ammonia keeps the partial pressure of the water vapor down. It does take a while to get much darkening, and it might help to renew the ammonia from time to time.

I've never used stain on the wood of a guitar, except for walnut hull 'tea' on light colored fingerboards, so I can't help you there.

I got the 28% ammonia on Amazon. I noticed that the color change penetrated completely through the white oak after a week in the tent. I bound the body with white oak also and had an waist area which needed some repair. That's where the depth of penetration showed.

Thanks, folks. that's a whole lot more information than I had when I asked. I saw that I could get 28% from Amazon, but the ammonia would cost more than the b/s set of wood I was trying to color, and my cheapskate gene kicked in.

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Peter Havriluk

But how much oak could you fume with it?

The penetration is one of the benefits of fuming.

I've brushed on diluted supermarket Ammonia for a non-luthier project and it worked just fine. Might be worth trying on some scrap material.

Never done it but thought this was worth reading.

https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/finishing/the-best-ammonia-for-fuming-white-oak

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Has anyone wiped-on/brushed-on any household ammonia instead of fuming?

Thanks!

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Peter Havriluk

See bill's post 2 post's back

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.