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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:58 am 
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Koa
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I didn't say it was a good thing :lol:

Just a different set of issues. And I haven't been able to find any info about radial vs tangential movement with the Santos or it's stability in general.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:50 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Kent give this link a try. I think it will answer most of your questions.
http://www.exotichardwoods-southamerica.com/mahoganysantos.htm

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:55 pm 
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Koa
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Damage during drying relates to the differences in shrinkage rates, and differences in rates of moisture release throughout the piece of wood (core drying vs shell), which is also directly related to speed at which the wood can be dried safely. The wood does seperate at the path of least resistance, but the forces acting on the wood during drying are going to vary throughout the piece, and are going to shift during the process(you can actually watch a crack open, and close back up as the drying continues). They are not going to be present at the same levels after the wood has dried, or has been reduced in dimension(to limit the stress created by these differences in pressure and tension). Shell damage done early on in the drying process and core damage occuring later in the process does seem to vary a lot depending on the type of wood and how it dries. From what I have seen, most damage done during the drying process is oriented perpendicular to the growth rings, although wood that is prone to shake may seperate parallel to the growth rings. I am not sure how much damage is done to the wood(beyond what is visable to the naked eye), but could easily see how high stress drying could lead to more small fractures. If I understand the root cause for woods to be more prone to shake(seperatiion parallel to the growth rings) correctly, it is the byproduct of bacterial damage. The degree of damage may cause weakening or actual seperation. The damage is usually found in wood that has grown in very wet conditions.

As far as splitting in service. You may be right idunno . I have noticed well quartersawn wood in certain pieces like to split easier than flatsawn when flexed. I suspect though, that you wouldn't want to attempt a repair on a top with shake or seperation at points of runnout(pretty difficult fix). A split in quartered wood is not as bad to repair. Maybe that is part of the reason for the traditional use of quartered over flat (along with other reasons of course).

Rich


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 3:12 pm 
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Koa
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The wood does seperate at the path of least resistance,

At the risk of beating this thing to death (where's the emoticon fotr that?).... [xx(]

Those radial checks don't happen "because" that's the path of least resistence, they happen because that's the direction of the forces.

There are tons of variables everywhere you look but in general, I can't see any reason to say QS back wood is always superior. And as a rule, I can't see any reason why one should reject a back that will move about the same as the top does.

But on that note, I'm outa here for awhile on a sunny vacation. bliss

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:30 am 
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Does the typical hand made guitar buyer ask about 2 and/or 4 pc backs? And does this question come up at purchase? The reason I bring this up, being a Ferrari fan I've attended a few racing events and while speaking to owners you realize some bought the car for what it represents and actually know very little in the way of the car's features and their benefits. Puzzling to me. On a side note, a co-worker just picked up a $1000 Takanime (sp?), when he showed me the model on the web I read off the woods used on it and his reaction was 'really?, I thought is just played really nice.' -Vinny


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:57 am 
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Kent Chasson wrote:
[i]At the risk of beating this thing to death (where's the emoticon fotr that?).... [xx(]


Image

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:19 am 
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Now if you could make a guitar out of that stick, it would be perfect!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:23 am 
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Koa
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I couldn't resist not putting this cocobolo into an instrument, flat sawn or not.
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