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I do make an effort to use woods with similar radial shrinkage percentages (if they are quatersawn, only the radial will matter), but it doesn't seem to be critical. For one, any back will shrink in low humidity, and if the joint is backed up with a cross grain strip the failure line will not be on the joint (it's likely to be alongside the reinforcing strip). Three piece backs are not really any worse off here than two piece: dry them enough, and they will crack somewhere. For another, once woods have dried, they don't take up as much moisture for a given humidity as they had at that humidity when first drying, so the real picture for shrinkage and expansion of cured wood is less than the shrinkage tables (which are from green to fully dry, usually kin dry) would indicate.

About the only risk I see if the woods had very different shrinkage percentages would be rippling or cupping, etc. And one just doesn't see much of that if dry, seasoned woods are used--even with rosewood/maple combinations.

I agree that it will often look better if the center is a bookmatch, so that the back is actually four piece. Depends on what you have to work with. Here's one now in progress with a one-piece center. Bookmatching the center wasn't an option; I made the center from an orphaned board. African blackwood and cocobolo, about ready for sanding.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Ooooh, that's ^ going to look pretty under finish!
Howard is that a commission or a spec?

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Thanks! It's a commission. I'll post a few photos when it's done.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Good...please do.

SK

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

You know Hesh, usualy I agree with your tastes on guitars (oddly enough, you stretched my tastes with a couple of your guitars) but in this case, I have to kindly disagree! I love 3-piece backs! In fact, the guys here have shown a number of them with a lot of class. That's one of the reasons why I'm a fan of the Martin D-35. It's a great look.

JJ, maple is related to Cherry, and might make a great combination. I'm thinking some birdseye would look fantastic for the center strip.

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

Howard...thanks for posting your work-in-progress. Looking forward to see that stunning combo under finish.

Don...good idea on the maple/cherry combo. I like the prospect of the reddish patina of Cherry differentiating the two as it ages. I'm looking forward to spending more time assembling some prototype possibilities.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

I am a fan of multi piece backs. Four piece for bookmatched, and three for contrasting different woods. The quality of cut, and or figure on many smaller growing trees can be much higher if you use multi piece. It also challenges your skills in matching grain and flawless joints. Opens up more artistic options, and allows for better selection in the orientation of grain for stability.

I asked about multi piece backs and what peoples views were a while back. Most all the responces were in favor of using multi piece. When I sell sets, I see MUCH lower interest in anything less than two piece(even if the price is much lower). The only thing I can figure is an odd perception, or fear of making good joints.

Either way, I picked up a piece of amazing quartersawn Madagascar RW from my shelf and am going to make up a four piece, and a 4 piece bearclaw Sitka top set that is super stiff and looks incredable. These are going to be used on a build for my father. I will shoot some pics after joining them up.

Rich

Rich...I'm assuming that the general jointing procedures work similarly for 3-4 piece backs for what is required for 2 piece...light free joints before gluing up.

I'd be real interested in seeing your method as you match and join your upcoming back.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

JJ,
Yep, there is nothing fancy about the way I join parts. So yes, same old same old. As for fitting up the pieces so they look nice. I try to just look at the grain, color, figure, any thing that I can use to look more continuous. I never know for sure if a match will make me happy till after I surface the set. If I have to get in close to detect where they start and stop, I am happy. If it does not strike my fancy, I rip them apart and try a new stratagy. Here are a couple pics of the sets slid together, the glue is curing on them at the moment so I can surface them later today or as soon as time permits.

Palisander RW


Spruce


Rich

Rich,

That is stunning work.

Very nice work indeed, Rich. I'm more impressed with the grain matching...you make them look like 2 pieces...almost. But that's not exactly why I started this thread. Rather than join wood to conceal the joint, my motivation is more aesthetic...creating different angles between the 2 species or grain patterns, inserting purfling to enhance the contrast, etc.

As others have mentioned the D-35 look, so have I been enamored with that as well. I'd be interested if you have also done something along those lines as well.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

JJ,
Sorry about that, I was thinking multipiece backs in general. I have not done much full joining of different species. I usually just do something more like a regular inlayed backstrap if I add contrasting wood, although I do want to give it a go when the right bits of wood strike me.

This is more or less the most I have done for different woods(pretty dull and basic)


Rich

Dull? Basic?? Huh???

(Looks pretty fabulous to me....)

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

I would agree with Steve. You can't use "Snakewood" and "Dull" in the same sentence!

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com