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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 1:43 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Austin, Texas
http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD20000173AA.pdf

hmmm...it would appear as if it has both acetone and MEK (which is a solvent for nitrocellulose)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 4:54 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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j.Brown wrote:
MichaelP wrote:
LMI sells a non shrinking microbead based filler in nutral (spruce) and light brown color. It works very nice but my favorite is med thick CA. Quickest method of all.


Michael, do you spread the CA with a credit card or fiberboard or anything? Do you find that it needs pushing/shoving/coercing like epoxy does to get it into the pores? Multiple coats?
And lastly, do you sand back to wood or leave a fine CA layer on?
-j.


I use Teflon cards UHMW would work as well. If the pores are say like Mahogany one coat will do the trick. Two if very porous works just like epoxy but with more nasal kick

use a resperator


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 7:01 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Nr London, UK
How does an epoxy glue when used as a grain filler over more traditional materials compare tonally?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:14 pm 
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Koa
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Last edited by TonyFrancis on Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:34 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Tony my friend not to disagree with you but lots of folks use epoxy finishing resins as pore fillers with excellent results and I have yet to hear of an example where the epoxy pore fill lost it adhesion.

Some will sand it back to the wood leaving the epoxy only in the pores and some leave a very thin film on the surface of the guitar. Epoxy finishing resins such as Z-Poxy and System III and West Systems epoxy sand quite easily in my experience and much easier than the water based filler that Stew-Mac sells.

As for yellowing - how old does a guitar have to be for this to happen?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:57 pm 
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Koa
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Last edited by TonyFrancis on Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 2:19 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 6:44 pm
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First name: Allen
Last Name: McFarlen
City: Mt. Sheridan
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Zip/Postal Code: 4868
Country: Australia
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After reading this topic and heard about using egg white, and I was just ready to pore fill the latest build, I thought I'd give it a try. I usually use WEST Systems, but it's kinda messy.

The body is EIR and has huge pores. I would think with the epoxy it would take 3 goes to get them completely filled. Not knowing how to go about this, I took a stab at taking a bit of 180 grit sandpaper, dipped it into the egg white, then started to sand the surface in a circular motion to work up a slurry, and rub it into the pores. I found it was best to not keep sanding until it completely dried up, as it seemed to pull the fill out of the pores. It was best to leave a very thin film of slurry on the wood, then go onto the next area. Just working small areas at a time.

I let it dry for about 3 hours, and it seemed to be quite dry, so I sanded back with some more 180 grit back to the bare wood. It filled the pores beautifully. I can only see a few areas that are going to need some more fill.

It's cheap and much easier than epoxy to apply and sand back. The wood under epoxy tends to turn very dark. With the egg white it stayed much lighter and brighter. That's kinda important for dark woods that have really nice figure that you don't want to loose by turning too dark.

It's gets my vote.

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Barron River Guitars & Ukuleles
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:28 am 
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Koa
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I've started using boogers. I carry around a little jar and collect them throughout the day. Totally natural. Totally free. Totally awesome.

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"The Dude abides. I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there. The Dude. Takin' 'er easy for all us sinners. Shoosh." The Stranger


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 12:51 pm 
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Koa
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And ear wax on koa.

That sounds great about the egg whites, I am going to try that for sure. Thanks for posting your experience.

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http://www.legeytinstruments.com
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:05 pm 
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Mahogany
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amcfarlen wrote:
After reading this topic and heard about using egg white, and I was just ready to pore fill the latest build, I thought I'd give it a try.

It's cheap and much easier than epoxy to apply and sand back. The wood under epoxy tends to turn very dark. With the egg white it stayed much lighter and brighter. That's kinda important for dark woods that have really nice figure that you don't want to loose by turning too dark.

It's gets my vote.


I tried it this evening too. I used 600 grit with the egg white, and followed your method, but it did leave some fine circular scratch marks though. However, as a matter of interest I went finer with grits, and ended up with micromesh..... and I didn't go right back down to the wood.... it came up really silky! You could make varnish out of that stuff!!

Oh yes... and the pores were filled perfectly. I am working at the moment with some very pale Honduras mahogany, and I am trying to keep it light straw/golden coloured. This was the ideal solution.

I know what I will be using in future!

Rod


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 12:16 am 
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Koa
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Location: Issaquah, Washington USA
Thanks for all the tips! I never would have thought of egg whites. I wonder if the whites would cook if the instrument were left in the sun? laughing6-hehe

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 3:19 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Country: Australia
Focus: Build
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The Rose wood that I'm using at the present is hard as, so the 180 grit doesn't leave any marks on it. For softer woods I suspect much finer grits as you mentioned would be more suitable. I did a demonstration of this technique at the local woodworkers guild this past weekend, and the members were amazed at it's user friendliness and results.

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Barron River Guitars & Ukuleles
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