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Just an addendum. The transition area at the neck and heel are notorious for harboring scratch marks when you think you got em all during finish sanding.

To smooth those areas the best tool by far for me has been the rounded edges of the Porter Cable Speed Bloc sander. You can smooth and do some final sculpting with it quite nicely.

I must give credit to Adam Stark. He told me about the technique a number of years ago and it has made finish sanding these areas much more efficient for me.

Here is a staged photo.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I’m not experienced enough for any one to pay too much attention to my opinions but I happened to be carving a neck today with one of these nifty little guys and I have to say that it’s a pleasure to use and certainly gets right into those nooks and crannies. Someone on this gorum (sorry, can’t remember who) recommended it a while back.

Beware, the new Dragon rasps Stewmac is selling have significantly fewer stitches than they used to. Here’s a shot of my old ones (with handles) along with brand new ones my student recently purchased.

Granted, they still cut, but not as nicely as the old ones. I’ll be replacing mine soon, but will be upgrading to either Liogier or Auriou.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Mountain Song Guitars www.mountainsongguitars.com

For the heel to neck transition I rough it in with a rolling pin sander. For the volute area, I rough it in with skew chisels and a rat tail rasp. Both areas get finished with a card scraper and sandpaper.

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