We use a belt sander.
The pic below is a bridge but the headstock works the same way and makes a great volute as Tony says.
Bob
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| How do you thickness a headstock? http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=15293 |
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:03 am ] |
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I could go archive diving and find some of these I'm sure. I've got to set up an accurate way of thicknessing this part of the neck. I have a Wagner power planer on my drill press. I've been less than successful with it, maybe it's technique? I've used my benchtop sander to some degree, but need to jig it so it's much more accurate than hand sanding it. Any ideas? TIA, Bruce |
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| Author: | James W B [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:09 am ] |
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I do mine on a disc sander,like Robbie O`brien teaches in his video. james |
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| Author: | Steve Saville [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:18 am ] |
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I do mine like John Mayes. Get his neck making DVD. Sorry, I looked for pictures and I don't have anything. John's DVD is well worth the money. |
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| Author: | joelThompson [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:34 am ] |
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I thickness it from the top just after joint the scarf jiont. Sometimes i will cut it close to thickness on the bandsaw and then clean it with a block plane. If i need a little more taken off later i use the wagner. You need a realy stable drill press for the wagner to work. Joel. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:45 am ] |
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Cut close to size on the bandsaw, then clean up to final thickness in my shopbuilt thickness sander .. creates a lovely volute at the same time. |
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| Author: | PaulB [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:47 am ] |
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I use my thickness sander, only takes a few minutes. |
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| Author: | burbank [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:53 am ] |
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I've used a Robo-Sander in the drill press. Needs a sturdy fence, though. sort of like a vertical thickness sander. |
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| Author: | bob_connor [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:02 am ] |
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We use a belt sander. The pic below is a bridge but the headstock works the same way and makes a great volute as Tony says.
Bob |
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| Author: | FishtownMike [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:05 am ] |
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How do you do this on a thickness sander. We are talking about a drum sander right. Do you shut off the feed table and feed it by hand? Is your headstock attached to the neck at this point or do you do this before joining the scarf joint? |
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| Author: | Ricardo [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:17 am ] |
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I cut to rough with bandsaw then use the Wagner Slayer planer. Wished there were a better way. |
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| Author: | GregG [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:36 am ] |
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I have a jig that I mount my neck in and cut to thickness on a bandsaw, with the proper blade( I use my resaw blade) it's nearly perfect right then and there. Greg |
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| Author: | Jim Kirby [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:44 am ] |
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I'm with Rich. Once I get the face of the headstock and the gluing surface for the fingerboard right w/r each other, I thickness the headstock (and the neck shaft for that matter) with the Wagner fingernail nibbler. |
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| Author: | Terry Stowell [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:00 pm ] |
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This could be fun (just fer roughin' in...)
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:25 pm ] |
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I found a pic in the archives showing a small delta sander tabletop type with a plywood adjusable wing. Problem with mine is it's quite worn and the bed will raise about a 1/2 inch when wiggled up and down. I may be able to tighten the allen head screw at the motorized end which holds it all? Time to bring in my big floor model. My shop just keeps getting smaller. Rod.... help! |
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| Author: | phil c-e [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:09 pm ] |
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hey bob, your system looks like it makes a lot of sense - and even leaves room to tuck the end of a shop vac in somewhere. could you show us another picture or two of how you make adjustments? phil |
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| Author: | bob_connor [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:21 pm ] |
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Just a couple of wing-nuts Phil 
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| Author: | Dave Anderson [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:23 pm ] |
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Bruce, I made this simple jig that works well for headstocks and other things like brace ends and bridge wings.It makes a nice volute too. 
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| Author: | Claire [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:39 pm ] |
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I use a scarfe joint. I thin it with a jack plane. I taper the neck in the same way. Select the grain direction before glueing the headstock on. Mark it out carefully and double check your progress at regular intervals. Plane away from the centre of the joint Clean it up on a large sanding block. Gets nice results Takes about 15 minutes with care. Claire 
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| Author: | jsimpson [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:17 pm ] |
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Home-built thickness sander here as well. |
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| Author: | fryovanni [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:50 pm ] |
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I use a 3" drum to shape up to the volute (tuner side),I use a 2" drum on the shaft side of the volute, then I thickness sand the remainder of the underside of the headstock using the open end of my 16/32. I will stop just a fraction shy of bringing it totally level, and smooth it with a sanding block. Very slight hand sanding, but if you try to use the drum to take it dead flat the end of the drum will rub the volutes radius. Works pretty nice for me. Rich |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:02 pm ] |
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Drum sander here, just like Tony Karol described. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Wed Jan 09, 2008 12:24 am ] |
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My shop built uses a sled ... so no feed system to turn off !!! Just slip the headstock in upside down to snad the back side and you are there ... pretty simple really. Its just like the stationary belt sander setup shown above, but in a 6 inch drum sander with a bigger table |
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| Author: | Dave Stewart [ Wed Jan 09, 2008 2:44 am ] |
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I use the method Bob Benedetto shows in his book. Get the upper surface flat, then glue a 1/8" shim to the tip of the upper surface of the paddle (this establishes a subtle taper to the headstock). On a drill press, passes under a rotary file will reduce thickness as required (Benedetto suggests safe-t-planer.....hate those things!) Remember to measure thicknesses of front & back face veneers first, so you can plane to correct thickness for your tuners to work (You're probably sensing I know this from experience!  )
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| Author: | SimonF [ Wed Jan 09, 2008 3:33 am ] |
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I use a router to profile my necks. I got the idea from Ryan's website and it does give you a lot of accuracy and precision. Ideally, it would be nice to have a shaper for the task but I can route away the excess in just two passes. Obviously, you need to remove most of the extra material beforehand. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:40 am ] |
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Handplane for initial thicknessing (from the front, after scarfing), then either a router jig and rasp or (now that I have it) a drum sander/end of the belt sander, creating a nice, even surface for the backstrapping. |
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