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Crack and bump between fingerboard
http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=15388		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Andrew Swift [ Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:11 am ]
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Just glued on my fingerboard two days ago and it looks good except for a small 1mm gap between the board and the neck that extends for about 6 1/2 (11th to 21st frets) but only on one side of the neck . They were both perfectly flat prior to gluing yet i checked after glueing and there was a slight bump on the low E side around the 15th and 16th fret. Yesterday dripped some glue down into the crack and clamped it but it hasn't done the trick, it's still there and as wide as ever. It dosn't have to do with clamping pressure i know that much. I was thinking of using a syringe to get glue down in there but i think the stuff would be too thick to be used in a syringe.

How on Earth can i get this board flat on the neck and that crack to disappear?

thank you guys so much
Author:  Alain Lambert [ Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:32 am ]
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[QUOTE=Andrew Swift] a small 1mm gap between the board and the neck that extends for about 6 1/2 (11th to 21st frets) but only on one side of the neck . [/QUOTE]

What kind of guitar?
There is no neck pass the 14th fret on an acoustic.

Sounds to me you will have to remove clean and reglue.
This time use some cauls so the pressure is applied mainly to the side of the board.

There was a discussion recently about that showing a big caul made of maple, I cannot find it now.
Author:  Hesh [ Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:06 am ]
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Andrew not only what kind of guitar what kind of glue did you use?

Injecting, wicking, wishing glue in the crack is not going to close it now that the glue that you originally used is cured.

I agree with Alain that this is probably a case where you are best to remove the fret board, clean it up, do a dry run with clamps to be sure that once clamped there are no gaps, AND don't use a water based glue.

Here is the picture that I think Alain may have been talking about.  This is a commercially available fret board gluing caul from John Watkins.  It is hard maple, dead straight, pre-radiused to 16", and relieved in the center, truss-rod area.  I used West Systems epoxy and received great results.
Author:  Andrew Swift [ Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:40 am ]
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I'm sorry guys, this is an electric solid body with a bolt on neck. I just started building about a year or so ago so i'm still getting the hang of everything. I've read up for about 2 years. The problem all these special cauls and tool is that i'm strapped for money and time. Removing the fingerboard does sound like the best way at this point. I'm using Loctite Professional Wood Worx cabinet makers glue. So far it's worked out for me. Would Gorilla Glue be good for this? and what is the best way to remove the board intact from the neck?
Author:  Hesh [ Tue Jan 15, 2008 11:14 am ]
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I don't know this glue Andrew but I am sure that someone will be along shortly that can advise you better.

HHG, Fish glue, Titebond, and some epoxies will release with heat.  Hopefully the Locktite stuff will too.

If your neck is perfectly straight you could get away without a caul if your clamps and procedure are correct.  What kinds of clamps do you have available to you?  There are clamps that are like bands that will conform to the shape of the fret board.  Also, I have glued on many a fret board using 2 64" rubber bands wrapped around and around the neck.  It's not the best way to do this but requires very little in the way of tools or cauls and is recommended by Stew-Mac with their kits.
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