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I have a couple of ideas for holding the neck while carving but I thought I would see if anyone out there has anything new of sorts.

I've looked in the archives and well, there's just to many posts that say "neck holder" or "neck carving" etc....

JJ, you mentioned in you "Workbench finally completed" thread that you made a new neck carving jig. Got any pictures?

And apparently John How has something really cool too but the pictues isn't on the forum anymore.

Anyone else have some pictures to post, I would appreciate it.

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

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Rod,
Here is a link from my website that shows how to carve a neck. This video is from Edward Dick's Guitar Building class. It is just a 2x4 screwed to the workbench with a router pad. Very simple.
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com/products/videop10/vid10-1.html

More videos here:
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com/products/p10-2.html
Enjoy!

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Tracy
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com

I used to just stick them vertically in a vise by the tenon end before the Fadal (well, and before I used the belt sander)

If I were committed to carving necks by hand, I'd make something analogous to what was shown. A piece of 2x4, cut thinner than your neck width, and just double-stick-tape the blank down onto it and carve away. This doesn't work so well for those that carve the neck after fretting, though.

If you're going all the way, then use vacuum instead of the DST to hold the blank down. I don't tend to stick necks on it, but I have such a fixture on my bench I use to hold fretboards while I install and level inlay.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

Ahhhhhh, vacuum clamp. I keep forgetting I've got a vacuum pump now (haven't used it yet). Good idea Bob, just need to go to HD and get some close cell foam and I think I have a great idea. Thanks!

Keep the ideas coming though please.

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

Rod...I don't have any pictures but here's what I do:

1) Band saw the two blanks from a 3"x4" block

2) Establish a 15* angle and plane dead flat surfaces on the FB and Headstock

3) Rout the truss rod slot and CF slots while all is still straight and square.

4) I use the Wooson jig to rout the tenon with the matching angle

5) Shape out the back side of the neck on a belt sander jig. I thickness at this stage to approx .750"

6) Thickness back side of the headstock to .500"

7) Bandsaw rough headstock and neck taper to within 1/8" of the line.

8) From this stage onward I clamp the neck to a 2x6x24 board that has 1.5" holes strategically placed to clamp the neck. This board is solidly clamped in a heavy vise on my heavy maple bench...it doesn't move a millimeter. The board also has a cutout to accommodate the heel on one side. On the same side, I have also angled an end to accommodate the angled headstock. My goal is to tightly secure the neck so that I can use a spokeshave, rasp and files.
On the opposite side of the board it is just flat to clamp down the neck in order to shape the back surface of the neck.

9) I carve out most of the contour before gluing on the fretted FB with epoxy.

10) Final shape with 80, 120 and 220 grits. I shoot for about .840" at the 1st fret and taper to about .890" at the 8th fret.

Neck carving is one of my favorite parts of making the guitar. I hope I described this in an understandable fashion. Fire away with any questions if I confused you.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

I think Rod wants to see fixtures that hold the neck in place while carving.....

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

You're right peter, but I certainly don't mind hearing someone else's neck making procedure. Mine is very similar to JJ's anyway.

Peter, you have any pics of your neck shaping jig (if you have one that is)?

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My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

I modeled my jig off of Mario's. Here's a link to his: Mario Proulx neck construction

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Joe Breault
Merrimack, NH
Perpetual novice

Mine looks like a lot like Marios...except I have holes drilled in the center of the board for clamps.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

As simple and crude as that 2x4 appears, it's vintage '90s(it may actually be my very first ever '"jig") and to this day, I can't fault it. At no point have I ever thought "gee, I need to do -this- better".

Rod: I don't have a picture and I have not built this jig,but I ordered a back issue of American Lutherie with a description of a router jig for carving necks. I came across this in the archive section of MIMF and have seen similar jigs either here or at MIMF. With this jig the neck blank is mounted to a rail that pivots in a circular arc under the router. The taper is created by one end sitting lower under the router. The router travels on rails above the blank. Someone has posted a similar jig that uses a sander rather than router.

If you are looking for something to hold the blank while you carve by hand, this is not for you. I decided at this point,this was not for me, but it was interesting to see how it worked.

Greg

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Greg Hatcher
North Carolina

Rod, I use a simpler approach.

If the fingerboard is glued on already, I just hold the extension with my teeth and the head stock between my feet. If the finger board isn't on there, I just manage to hold it between my knees...

Head back to basics, man. You'll never regret it. Just be careful if you intend to use a chain-saw for the rough shaping.

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

I purchased this Handrail Shaper Bit on Ebay for seventy bucks. I will be trying it this weekend. A quick check has me thinking it will get me 90% there on the neck straight section. Here's hoping...

MMMmm...
The board says...
"Sorry, the board attachment quota has been reached."

Oh... I saw what Todd did.
http://www.hubka.com/guitar/fz-8646.jpg
http://www.hubka.com/guitar/FZ-8646-1250.jpg
http://www.hubka.com/guitar/FZ-8646-2250.jpg

Got to love that edit button

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Rick Hubka
Chemainus BC Canada

Here's mine. One of my kids got it from Martin back in 1997 and I inherited it. Works great.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Just a quick note to say thanks to all who have posted in this thread - I'm just at the neck carving stage on my first guitar and have found all of your photos and explanations to be most valuable!

THANKS!!

Cheers,
Dave F.

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Cambrian Guitars

"There goes Mister Tic-Tac out the back with some bric-brac from the knick-knack rack"

I use a similar jig and it works well. If you are carving the neck prior to gluing the fingerboard, rout a slot down the middle of your jig that is the same size as your truss rod rout and put a spline in it. That will keep the neck in place and you will only need a single clamp on the headstock.

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Rich S

"The inconvenience of poor quality will linger long after the thrill of a bargain has been forgotten"

[img][/img]
This fixture has a pivot that is locked with the handle on the end. That pivot combined with tilting in and/or turning the vise lets me work comfortably while carving as well as finish sanding the neck. The body pieces of the fixture are the aluminum 8020 type extrusions which keeps it lightweight.
I have several closeups of the various details of the fixture is anyone is interested.
Nelson

We're interested! This is the place...

I wouldn't neccesarily say mine is so cool but much like Marios 2x4, it works.
It is a leftover 1 1/2" thick piece of laminated beam about 10" wide and as long as a neck. It has a clamping surface like a negative of the fingerboard/headstock. You just lay the neck on it and clamp the headstock and heal down, tighten it up in a vise and start carving. I'll try to post a picture tomorrow.

Now that my slow dialup has finally loaded the rest of these pics, I see that mine is much like the one Terrance is using.

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

I'll post some closeups later today.

This fixture is probably overkill. Some of my favorite and most used tools are more in the line of Mario's 2x4.

Is that an angle grinder I see in that photo?!?!

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The member formerly known as erikbojerik....

Double sided tape on a 2 X 4 works just fine and no clamping issues.

Jimmie Sorrels
Germantown, TN

Yep, Mario likes to live on the edge!

Actually, I use one myself, but with one of these. With a 40 grit, it hogs off lots of material, and QUICK, but still leaves a decent finish...

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Wes McMillian
Santo, TX
http://www.wesmcmillian.com