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To date I haven't been really happy with my method for cutting the saddle slot when making bridges. It works fine but I don't have any type of stop set up to regulate the length of the slot and my current set up doesn't allow for that.

So can you all show me your way of cutting your saddle slots please? I don't have a router table, I know some might use a router table for this.

Also, remember I'm cheap so buying something is not an option for me . I'm fine to make a jig of some sort and would appreciate your help.

Thanks

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

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try something lke this Rod .. works for me ...

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

So ....

the right most fence is set up so that it provides the 3mm slant to the slot as the lam trimmer follows it, as compared to the angle the bridge blank is locked in by the wedge. I have replaced the clamp/blkwood stops with lock down knobs and stops that are full time and much easier to set for slot length. Just make sure the router stays against the right fence,and the slot turns out fine. I also do the slot in multiple passes .. makes it easy to run off a dozen blanks at the same time.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Here's mine. Worked good for 1 so far....

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Horton, MI

Gee, looks like I might have gotten some ideas from Tony!

Even though I have guides for the trimmer on two sides, I still have to pay attention to keeping the trimmer base pushed against the upper one, since I can't get true zero play between the base and the guides

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now known around here as Pat Foster
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Mine looks a lot like those above. I got mine from the Sylvan Wells site, works great.

Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

I looks like you all make the bridge & then slot it!

I take the bridge blanks ,cut them all the same length & width & Thickness!
Then in a jig (made of Mahogany)that the blanks fit into without movement because of a movable piece that keeps pressure on them
I rout a 4mm deep slot

I have a piece of 3/8 plexiglass that the router runs against and is adjustable so as to change the angle when needed!
I can do 15 in one hour and they're all the same !
Then I cut the outline of the bridge !

Mike
http://www.collinsguitars.com

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Mike Collins

For new bridges, I slot them on my milling machine.

For replacement bridges, I slot them after I glue the bridge down with my saddle mill.

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- Louis Freilicher

Oh No! Not another learning experience!

Here are some photos of my primary jig for making bridges. First, note that there is a plywood blank (it has holes in it). That is used to cut the bridge to the exact length needed for the jigging. The square bridge is held into the jig by a tapered wedge of wood. The base of the jig has the six holes in it for the drilling of the string holes while the square piece is in the jig. The holes are 3/16". Mount a 3/16" pin on your drill press and you can drill the holes without measuring! The saddle slot is cut with a dremel. The dremel base is an exact fit that slides to cut the saddle slot. There are stops at each end to define the slot. The dremel slides are NOT parallel with the bridge but adjusted to get the proper slant on the saddle. The saddle slot and the pin hole drilling is accomplished from one jig. After this process, cut your shape and thin the edges on a belt sander setup.

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Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com

Nice stuff everyone! I was using the John How design from the tools and jigs page but changed to Tony Karol's a while back after he posted it. It has worked very well for me. I'm putting my pin holes parallel to the saddle slot now to hopefully minimize the risk of a split.
I'll also put in a plug for Sylvan's jigs. Every one I've copied has worked like a charm so you can't go wrong there either.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

You can do pretty well with a straight burr or end-mill in a drill press. Just clamp a piece of straight something at the right angle then plunge, lock, slide, and release. It's not too stressful an operation if you don't bear down on the bridge, and it's a fast setup with no special jig.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

One day I'll get around to building a trimmer jig like those shown above but I find using a drill press with an end-mill is dead simple, takes all of about two minutes to setup and is very quick for doing a large run of them.

Just clamp a scrap bit of wood as a fence in place then two other scraps to each side that stop the blank at the correct width. I use a slotted bridge from a previous run to easily get the correct width and slot depth. My bridges aren't slotted at an angle as I don't need the compensation but obviously to do this all you'd need is a piece of wood tapered at the right angle. Keep the RPM high to ensure a smooth cut.

Yesterday I slotted about half a dozen using this method to slot them; might have taken all of 15 minutes. Would have taken photos if I knew a topic like this would appear.

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Richard
http://www.guitarmaker.com