Official Luthiers Forum!

I understand that there are 2 vendors where you can get nice pre-carved necks, John Watkins’ cncguitarparts.com and http://www.hanalei-moon.com. I noticed that hanalei-moon gives you the option of neck set angle of –1, 1, 1.25, 1.5, 3.5, and 4.0. (I guess since John Watkins’ necks don’t give you the option, you need to make the angle whatever you need it to be yourself…) I’m sure this is to accommodate various types of guitars, which could include arch tops or electrics. At this point in time, I’m interested in the correct angle for an OM. I believe that should be –1. Is that right? …and can anybody say what types of guitars these angles correlate to? …but OM first…

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Hi Steve,
I recommend reading through the archives on neck angle. It's not simply based on the body style, but also the radius of your top, height of your saddle/bridge thickness, etc. Are you using a domed top or flat?
Cheers,
Darren

That would be for 28' radius top...

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Certainly there will be more experienced people to come around to help you, but I believe that's a 1.5, or 91.5 degree angle, rather, on your neck block. (Caveat: this coming from a newb)

Hanalei-moon makes lovely necks in all combinations of wood. I have purchased from them and they are delightful to work with. John W. will make whatever you want, too, but his off-the-shelf necks are limited in choices right now, although I understand that he is expanding his options. If you are making a pretty standard guitar, don't forget John Hall, who sells Martin necks. LMI and Stew-Mac also sell pre-carved necks suitable for most standard guitar uses as well. Lots of choices if you don't want to make your own.

I use 1.5 degrees on OMs with a 25' domed top - it comes in very close. But again there are other factors like do you flatten your upper bout etc.

Whatever basic angle is cut for you, you will (almost for sure) need to "floss" the joint to get the set & lateral alignment correct. There is lots of info available in the archives here & on other forums.
I use the method John Mayes shows on his video series, which involves placing PSA sandpaper on the heel area of the body, trimming out the paper even with the edges of the mortise, & carefully sanding the heel on this bed of abrasive. You need to check the set & alignment regularly as you go.
It can be a tedious job, but not as difficult as you might think.

Dont forget Saint Lutherie!
Bob is doing some great things!

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Support the OLF! Bookmark our STEWMAC link Today!
Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Who knew that getting the online store software working was going to be more work than getting all the stock parts programmed! The stock necks are coming...

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

It's impossible to determine ahead of time the exact angle needed. That is why Taylor uses their shim system. If anyone were able to predict neck angle, it would be them. That is also why all of my necks are a static 1.5 degrees so that you can adjust up to your needs without moving the 14th fret position.

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John Watkins
CNC Guitar Parts

I don't cut the heel angle until the body is built. It can be anywhere from .5 to 2 degrees depending on a variety of factors.
I show my method in my pictorial on neck making. If you use the Cumpiano assembly sequence (glue top to sides first) you can control the neck set more easily. I have used this method, and it works, but have changed to the back first assembly on account of it's easier to clean up the back to sides joint that can be seen through the soundhole.
-C

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Freeborn Guitars
and home of BeauGuard©

Hesh you said...

I use 1.5 degrees on OMs with a 25' domed top - it comes in very close. But again there are other factors like do you flatten your upper bout etc.

My understanding is that the proper angle of the body at the neck, between top and side is 89 degrees. That is why I was thinking that is why I was thinking that the neck angle would be -1 degree to get a total of 90 degrees... perhaps flawed thinking... maybe it's +1 degree... Also, I thought that "flattening" the upper bout was accepted practice...? I understand that one needs to flos the neck to achieve the proper angle and you can't expect a stock neck to have a perfect fit...

But, okay - if you use 1.5 degrees with a 25' domed top - what would be a reasonable starting point (that is to purchase, if you have the option) for a 28' domed top? ...1.25? ...2.0?

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Steve I use 1.5 degree on 28' tops day in and day out. As John said it is impossible to predict the exact angle pre fit up that is where the fitting process comes in to play. Better than 90% of the time I rarely have to do anything more than some flossing on the neck and sanding on the top to except the fretboard extension to fit a 1.5 degree neck to a 28' dome.

Once upon a time I use to leave my fretboard a tad proud of ¼” tall, fit the heel by flossing and then bolt up the neck and glue down the fretboard extension then re-level the fretboard in place. This eliminated the 14th hump or declining angle if it happened. Keep in mind though that this requires you to fret after the neck and fretboard are attached to the body. I have of course since become much better at fitting the necks but still to this day never fret till the neck and fretboard are attached. Just so that if I do have a slightly miss aligned fretboard to bridge plane I can re level the fretboard to correct this plane. Just another case of more than one way to get to the same place.