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Mold and Blocks
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Author:  SkyHigh [ Tue May 06, 2008 5:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Mold and Blocks
I would appreciated if you guys can answer couple of my questions.

-Why is Mold(external) two piece usually joined by clamp, bolt, etc?
What is the down side of making it one piece?

-How do you guys radius your tail/neck block to fit your body shape?
I see John Mayes on his DVD using belt sander. I don't have belt sander and would appreciate alternative ways.

Thanks, David
Author:  Jim Watts [ Tue May 06, 2008 6:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Mold and Blocks
It's easier to get the guitar out of the mold with a two piece mold generally speaking.

You can use a block plane to radius your end block.
Author:  Hesh [ Tue May 06, 2008 6:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Mold and Blocks
For the blocks I use a belt sander too BUT you can also purchase a Stew-Mac maple radius block, often used for fret boards, in the respective radius of your guitar shape tail and head block and sand them in the radius block. Some of the shapes that I build are approx. a 16' radius and this is when I use the Stew-Mac sanding blocks.
Author:  Mike OMelia [ Tue May 06, 2008 11:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Mold and Blocks
SkyHigh wrote:
I would appreciated if you guys can answer couple of my questions.

-Why is Mold(external) two piece usually joined by clamp, bolt, etc?
What is the down side of making it one piece?

-How do you guys radius your tail/neck block to fit your body shape?
I see John Mayes on his DVD using belt sander. I don't have belt sander and would appreciate alternative ways.

Thanks, David


Well, (see the other thread about not selling your first guitar before reading on), but the 2 piece allows you to apply pressure and make the sides conform to the mold shape better. But there are limits (see that thread I mentioned earlier).

Plus, getting it out as mentioned above is critical if you ever want to play it.

Mike
Author:  JRessler [ Wed May 07, 2008 7:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Mold and Blocks
I use 1 piece forms - have never had a problem. I like them better because I can stand it on end on the workbench without issue. Also don't have alignment issues. I cut through the top (an "S" shaped cut for alignment) and attach a cabinet latch. When it is time to remove the body, open the latch and push it out. If it is a little stubborn, put a screwdriver in the cut and spread it a bit. When fitting sides, I mark and cut both sides, then open the latch, insert sides, close latch - nice and tight.
Author:  Nigel Forster [ Wed May 07, 2008 8:26 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Mold and Blocks
I find a 2 piece Mold easier to make - I can use the same template to make both sides. And each side fits on my little router table better - no tipping.

As for shaping the block, you can make that part of your shape flat, which solves that little problem. But if you have a slight curve try taping some 60 grit to your flat work surface and push your block over it to get the curve you want.

http:www.nkforsterguitars.com
Author:  TonyKarol [ Wed May 07, 2008 3:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Mold and Blocks
Another advantage of a two piece mold is the ability to use it to make different sized guitars of the same shape. I make my Signatures anywhere from 15 1/2 to 16 1/4 lower bout. Cant do that with a one piece mold. Simply add blocks when bolting together.
Author:  Jeremy Douglas [ Thu May 08, 2008 5:18 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Mold and Blocks
SkyHigh wrote:
I would appreciated if you guys can answer couple of my questions.


-How do you guys radius your tail/neck block to fit your body shape?


I just finished my neck block, I used a sanding block I made based on my full size plans. I'm a total newb and it is much more foolproof this way.
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