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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 8:10 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:09 pm
Posts: 349
Location: Washington, GA
Hey guys,

This is my first 000 size guitar after building several dreads, and I was wondering about proper bridge plate size for this guitar, and I am using a pyramid bridge and will be on an Adirondack top. I know it should extend at least 1/8" behind the bridge. I know some of you curve the backside of the plate on a guitar this size and was wondering what would be the best way to go as far as tone/longevity. It will have light guage strings on it, and I am thinking about feathering out the lower X brace ends to nothing after reading some of the posts on the subject here; especially since it will have light guages. I am using the StewMac plans as a guide and the bridge plate seems so tiny compared to the dreads (maybe bridgeplate envy). I just want her to come out sounding good.

thanks

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:38 am 
Well hello brad! I have to say there is alot of room for debate in this area. What material are you making the plate out of? What style of music will you be playing? As far as the plans are concerned your bridge plate should be smaller on an 000 size guitar. Keep in mind most plans are over built slightly. I personaly don't arch my bridge plate. I am following the belief that the bridge plate must move in all directions freely for optimum sound. If you put an arch in it you are going to be adding more stiffness in that area inhibiting sound production and losing low end. I guess there is no right or wrong way to build a guitar experiment and have fun with it. Sometimes you learn more from mistakes then success!


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 7:11 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 am
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Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
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Country: United States
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What Todd said.

The reason that I use a curved plate is because my bridge is curved and I want the plate to follow the contours of my bridge and extend 1/8" beyond. For a P-bridge I would use a straight plate too.


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:44 am 
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Koa
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Location: Nr London, UK
I'm thinking of backing my bridge plate with a piece of brass to stop the ball ends pulling in, what's the opinion

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 1:38 pm 
Maple .100" thick. 1 3/4" wide.


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 1:40 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 8:49 am
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I don't know why I wasn't logged in, but I am "the guest above". Sorry for the confusion!

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 7:06 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:09 pm
Posts: 349
Location: Washington, GA
I really thank you for all your replies. This guitar will generally be for fingerpicking. It will, per the recipient, be strung with light guage strings, and a lower action (<3/32"). My intention is to use a maple plate. Adi top and the special grade high flame mahogany (LMI). wow7-eyes not cheap!!

As far as the top bracing, I have yet to delve into the mysterious world of tap tuning, deflection testing and such (thinking seriously about it, though after all the wonderful posts here). Would this guitar generally benefit by having the lower X tapered to nothing? The braces will more than likely be scalloped. I'm thinking the answer is a general "yes" but I thought I'd ask.

So far, this has been a fun project; first 000, first abalone rosette, new jigs and moulds, etc. It's nice to do something different. I really do appreciate all you guys' advice.

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