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Do you think it woujld be possible to squeeze an OM shape (Kinkade kingsdown) onto LMI classical sized wood? ive done some quick calculations in my head, and it would fit, but there wouldn't be much room to spare, width wise only 1/2" total, before jointing.

would it be worth requesting a larger set of classical sized wood?

just seems like a bit of a waste of money and wood buying steelstring sized sets if the guitar would fit on a classical sized set of wood.....

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"Anything that happens, happens. Anything that in happening causes something else to happen, causes something else to happen. Anything that in happening happens again, happens again. Though not necessarily in that order." Douglas Adams

1/2" extra should be more than enough! You're good to go!

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

brilliant, thanks

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"Anything that happens, happens. Anything that in happening causes something else to happen, causes something else to happen. Anything that in happening happens again, happens again. Though not necessarily in that order." Douglas Adams

Besides. If the wood is quartersawn and you end up a little short in the lower bout you can take the wood you remove in the waist area and glue it on as wings in the lower bout. I do that all the time. As long as the grain is uniform you can usually get it to be nearly invisible.

The bigger challenge is getting the sides deep enough. As long as you are good there it will work fine.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

well.... kinkaed says to trim the sides to just over 100mm, and the sides from lmi for a classical are 114mm, so thats about 12mm-ish extra, should be fine though? the first thing he does is cut the extra off so i assume this is okay?

thanks guys, you are very useful

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"Anything that happens, happens. Anything that in happening causes something else to happen, causes something else to happen. Anything that in happening happens again, happens again. Though not necessarily in that order." Douglas Adams

On the converse side...

Depending on what kind of wood you are talking about (which dictates the difference in price. I just checked and the difference on EIR is about $3. Whereas on Madrose it was $30) getting the larger size leaves some waste wood that can later be used for head plates, bridge plates, heel caps and end caps. The waste on the sides can be cut for your own custom bindings. All of those things cost money as well and if you have the scrap on hand, it comes in handy and economical when you need it/if you have the time and tools to deal with it.

Good luck on the build. I look forward to seeing your progress and results.

Dave

Another thing I have done to "grow" undersize backs is use a full thickness center strip and wide purflings inside the bindings. These often eliminate or cover up the small "wings" that we sometimes glue on the lower bout to widen the back plates.