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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 3:29 pm 
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I've been working on my sharpening technique lately after watching Todd's videos. I have the DMT course/extra-course stone and Norton 4000/8000 combo he's suggested many many time in past threads and a few new edge tools, so it's been good timing.

How many of you tend to use a micro-bevel? Todd, it didn't look like you were using one in your videos. I've always used them, but what I've noticed is that I have to spend a lot of time honing the chisel or plane blade back to the original bevel every time I sharpen in order to get the edge back to where it needs to be. If I didn't use one, I could touch up an edge in a minute's time and probably get a longer life from the stones.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 3:44 pm 
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Micro bevel is a term I've only heard in the knife world, and have assumed it's akin to honing angle in woodwork sharpening is this what your relating to?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:17 pm 
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JJH, we're on the same page. I'm attaching an illustration.

ToddStock wrote:
The other issue I have with multiples of honed bevels is that sharpening becomes a royal PITA because the secondary honed bevel has to be wiped out and then redone to achieve any measurable benefit,


Exactly. Thanks, Todd.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 9:16 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Wait a minute, Todd, I'm a little confused here....

If you grind at 25 and then hone at 30 until the honed surface gets wide enough to be work, how is that different than going through the sharpening process to get a bevel at 30 (say) and then doing a microbevel at 32 (say), which gets rehoned at 32 until it gets wide enough to be work?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 10:17 pm 
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It also depends on the chisels,
on my hand forged japanese chisels i use no micro bevel becouse i find the cut much better without one.
i presume this is becouse the laminated edge is making the primary bevel fine enough if polished correctly at the right angle.

As for european style chisels i stick do a normal 25=30 degree bevel depending on use and then eyeball or judge a micro bevel of a couple of degrees.
i do this with just one or two pases on my finest grit stone and touch up every now and then to bring the blade up razor sharpnes.

this works well for me and doesent take much time.
its also quick and easy to grind out the micro bevel when it gets to big and start to again, with an 800 grit water stone(then its polish with 1200 and mirror with 3000 etc).

its another thing that is a case of finding a method that works for you and sticking with it.

Joel.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 6:30 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Thanks for the clarification, Todd. I guess my microbevels are proto-secondary bevels in disguise.

JIm

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:35 pm 
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Last edited by TonyFrancis on Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:39 am 
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This is one of those woodworking things that can be confusing. I propose that the term "back bevel" be used to discribe what many call a micro bevel. Back bevel is just that a back bevel no mistake.
The term micro bevel be used to discribe any small or micro bevel and honing angle is just that. What has been confusing it that a micro bevel is used for two things. I always use it for the non flat side of a chisel or plane iron an use back bevel for the back or flat side of things.
Link

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:56 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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"Back bevel" is on the flat side of the blade, opposite the bevel. It's used to raise the cutting angle of a blade that is set bevel down in a fixed mount, as with a bench plane or power planer.

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