Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi OLF members;

I do a lot of experimenting with designs and techniques for improving tone and projection and one method I use on my flat tops is the application of a tail-piece. I never really noticed the absence of tail pieces with other makers until I started getting emails about my design/specs from other builders , wanting to know the performance characteristics I got from using them. I know from my own experiences that I can brace lighter and tune higher and not give a second thought to the bridge pulling or top bellying. I know there is the question of asthetics for many, but I think if it is done right and used on certain instruments it really looks nice. I get a lot of compliments on their looks too.
So how many tail-pieces are out there? I'd like to see photos and hear your thoughts on this.-N.C.

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Nehemiah Covey
www.coveysacoustics.com

Hi,

I haven't done any flattops with tailpieces, but it interests me, both from my desire to build a travel guitar with easily detachable neck and strings, and from a "knowledge in general" perspective. Are your guitars nylon or steel strings, and do you use classical or steel-string bracing? I'd also be concerned about the tailpiece breaking at the right angle bend over the bottom of the guitar. Do you use any special reinforcing? I do like the look of the wood tailpieces you showed better than a lot of the metal ones used on archtops. Do you have a website showing any more of your guitars? And finally, do you mind if I copy this idea for my personal guitars?

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Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

Hi Gene;

I think it makes a wonderful addition to some guitars and as for breaking under strain, just look at the Aetherius acoustic I designed. 12 string tuned to high "D" (10th fret of standard tuning basically). The scale has been shortened to compensate for string tension (18.5") but I have had no cracking or failure in any of my tail-piece equipped instruments.
You may certainly copy mine, I can only encourage that.
I increase the neck joint angle to about 1.90 degree and raise the bridge height a tad to allow for a proper string break angle at the tail-piece. I anchor the tail piece to the bout block and make sure nothing contacts the soundboard even under tuned tension. I also install a hardened steel pin in the block joint to help guard against lifting. When my guitars are finished and tuned, you can slide a business card under the T.P. all the way to the end.
If I can help you in any way, let me know and thanks for the response. -N.C.
My site = www.coveysacoustics.com

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Nehemiah Covey
www.coveysacoustics.com

Check out the current Batson thread (& website)

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Dave
Milton, ON

Hi Nehemiah,

I have completed one, and am working on my second (flattop steelstring with tailpiece.)

I cannot tell in your guitar photo if you are passing the strings through "tunnels" in the bridge to get the break angle similar to a typical steelstring, or if you are creating a bridge more similar to an archtop.

There seem to be a few people out there willing to experiment with these designs, but most luthiers (and probably most players, at this point) are concentrating on variations of Martin steelstring engineering and traditions.

Dennis

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Dennis Leahy
Duluth, MN, USA
7th Sense Multimedia

Hi Dennis;

Good to hear you're experimenting with different styles too.
I have made some of my tailpieces with string passages in the bridge to gain the proper angle, but usually I make adjustments in the neck angle and bridge height to insure the angle is sufficient. The parlor in the photo was done with passages to allow for classical/nylon string use, just tied to the bridge.
I am working on another unique style instrument that will utilize a tail piece with a lightly braced top , higher tunings and 6 , 8 or 12 string models.
Good Luck,Thanks for the feedback--Nehemiah

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Nehemiah Covey
www.coveysacoustics.com