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The gap is between the back and side (Photo below). The gouge is on the side, but i couldn't get a good picture of it. Also, should these imperfections be repaired before sanding and pore filling? When Faced with these kind of repairs, can someone explain the finshing schedule? Your suggestions will be appreciated.

Ron M.

Is the gap where the back meets the side? If so, won't you cover it up with your binding?

Ron buddy regarding the gap part of your questions here is a very simple, fast way to fill gaps that works great every time for me: http://luthiersforum.3element.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11580&KW=tutorial#forumTop

Dents can often be improved or eliminated by steaming them out. Place a small damp cloth directly over the dent and then place a soldering iron over the part of the cloth that is over the dent. Of course be careful to not set your self, shop, guitar, etc on fire, have a fire extinguisher charged and at hand. If the dent is do deep and the steam method does not work filling is an option and often will show with darker hardwoods. Most will use sanding dust from the wood being filled mixed with glue. You might consider treating it like a worm hole if nothing else works and there is a good tutorial for filling worm holes on Allied's site (a sponsor - link above)

Hope this helps.

Hi john,
Actually, I'm trying to avoid binding on my first, but it is still a possibilty.

Hesh, the wood isn't crushed, It's a small gouge made with a chisel that got away from me.

What kind of glue should i mix the dust with? I have titebond and fish glue.

I'll check the Allied website, Thank for the tips and the link..

Ron I am sorry and I should have posted the link to Allied's worm hole fix page for you too. They use either CA or epoxy depending on what they are trying to fill. Here is a link: http://www.alliedlutherie.com/filling_a_hole.htm

Depending upon the size of the gouge, you might want to glue a shaving of wood to it.

Thanks Hesh and Wbergman.

Ron M.

Ron--

I had something similar happen to an EIR set when the collet slipped on the binding lam trimmer and I got a dip of around 3/32" deep by 1/2" or so long. First, there was a minor heart attack. Then there was a two or three minute period of lapsing into logger talk. The next step was taking my smallest chisel and trimming the 'ding' to squared dimensions. This was followed by carving a little piece of off cut with similar grain and gluing it in with LMII white. This left the patch quite proud of the side. I very carefully used a scraper with a new burr to take it most of the way down, then I finished with a dab of LMII white and some 220 grit on a small cork block. The whole episode, including logger talk took about 45 minutes. The repair ended up being invisible. Best of luck with yours. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how well the visual aspect goes away.

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Jim Howell
Charlotte, NC

Sound like a great technique, I may give it a try, thanks Jhowell.

Ron M.

Hesh, great technique with the sandpaper and titebond. I wish I'd thought of that... about and hour ago. I just finited and pore filled. I've been using the lacquer stick, and heated knife trick.

But on bigger gaps, I use a piece of cut off from the side, back or binding I'm experiencing the gap with, chisel a sliver out of it and push it into the gap with some titebond. After it sets it gets scraped clean.

Works like a charm.

Dave

I just filled a few small gaps this weekend using Hesh's technique but with CA instead. The thin CA wicked into the gap a little and then I sanded slightly off grain. Sort of on a diagonal. It only takes a few swipes of the paper. Then I let it dry for 20 or 30 minutes. Then sand to completion. Completely invisiable.

I am concerned at times with using titebond to fill gaps because it has a tendnacy to dry yellow or white. While you shouldn't see it after this process, if you sand that area a little deeper than you thought later in the process, a line could show up. The CA dries clear and will match your sealer coat during finishing. So if the chance that the CA showed itself after sanding, the sealer would conseal it.

Joe

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Joe

The visibility of a CA fill after finishing depends on the surrounding wood. Ebony will usually make the fill virtually invisible. Rosewood not too bad. Walnut will probably show a slightly darker line. Lighter colored wood will definitly make this repair stand out.

Ah, good point Barry! I used this along side a rosewood fingerboard attaching to Mahogany. It was invisable...but I see your point if I had done this on maple!

J

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Joe