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Ok, getting ready to finally make the binding cuts. Got it all worked out.

When applying the binding, does one soak the material first to aid in bending? I am using a 0.02" ebony strip son both glue surfaces (with curly maple as the main binding). I had planned to glue the strips to the binding first (tite bond) so was worried that wetting the binding might ruin the strips...

Mike

Are you bending by hand or with a bending rig?

When I have tried to bend binding that already had the BWB purfling on it by hand with an iron, I have occasionally had issues with the BWB wanting to delaminate. Using a bending rig I havent had any problems at all.

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Ken H

Krikes! Another jig?

Ok, what is a bending rig?

Mike

Sounds like you will be bending by hand. Don't worry about making a jig for bending yet. If you've bent the sides by hand you can do the binding too.

You don't have to glue your purflings to the binding before bending Mike. You can glue it all inplace in the channels when you're ready.

What you can do is tape all 4 pieces of binding together with the purfling lines stacked between them. Use about 5 or 6 pieces of basic masking tape (one at each end and the other's spread between the ends). Tape it tight. So stack your binding and perfling like this as it will help support the purfling (and binding too for that matter) better. Bending one wider piece is easier than bending 4 narrow pieces.

Anyway, stack like so: binding/purfling/purfling/binding/binding/purfling/purfling/binding

This should give you about 1 - 1-1/2" of width.

When you bend, make sure you use something that will support the outside of the bend (for bending bindings, I use one of those thin 12-18" metal rulers that is really flexable [take the cork off]), especially with curly maple (any highly figured wood) as it will tend to crack right on the grain line and you'll have a hard time. Place the binding on your pipe and the flexable steel ruler on top of the binding, this will put pressure on the outside of the bend and help the binding bend instead of snap!

As for the "water", you don't really need much at all. Just a lite spritz with a spray bottle will suffice. When bending by hand you will need to spritz the wood periodically as it will dry out while getting warm from bending adjacent sections.

When you've successfully bent your bindings and purfling lines, use some mineral spirits or naptha to remove the tape and the tape residue. Now you're ready to install the bindings and purflings in the channels on your guitar body.

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sorry fo the confusion. I was talking about a Fox style bending jig/ rig/ whatever you call them.

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Reguards,

Ken H

I tried that, and failed miserably. I ended up with a mess, and had to rebend individually to get them right.

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Waddy

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Oh, you are talking about using the fox bender to shape the binding! I have a fox bender. But no heat blanket yet. Will the light bulbs work for this? What size light bulb?

Mike

You could probably use one of the twisty fluorescent bulbs for bending binding.

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Waddy

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I bend and just did 3 sets of binding and purf yesterday. On the purf you don't have to pre bend it, but I do, if not doing cllimb cuts. I find it bent easier to install. This is just me and way I do it and has worked for the past 5 years or so. Now I am talking about fiber or wood purf. The fibers for me have not seperated. On the bender thing with bulbs. As good and fast as with a blanket no, work yes and well. I used 2 150 watt and 1 200 watt bulbs or vs versa can't remember. I never had a problem, but that said the blanket is better. My bulb one got so hot, I burned the sides of the rig itself and form. On plastic we just laminate the purf to the binding (this is on side purf). I use both ca and LMI white for the whole process. CA less messy for me though.