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| Author: | Steve Sollod [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 11:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | holes for the tuners |
This may be an elementary question but.... What is the best way to make sure my holes for the tuners are drilled in the right place?  I have this big honkin' 10 mm bit... I figured I start out with a smaller bit, but I'm not sure how small or big I should go with the first bit....
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| Author: | Howard Klepper [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 11:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
Measure and mark and use an awl in the mark. Drill with a good lipped brad point bit. |
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| Author: | Steve Sollod [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
Thanks Howard. I got this 10mm bit from Stew-Mac. It's not a brad point, but they sold it for tuners that require that size hole. It seems to be to big to start with (especially since it's not a brad point...). I figured I start with an awl, but I'm not sure it's wise to follow the awl with the 10mm bit... That's why I thought that I should use an intermediate size before the 10mm to make sure I hit the mark. I guess a brad point would be good... Should I go smaller or larger for an intermediate hole? ...or is this not a good way to go...? ...This is my third build and I drilled the holes successfully on the other two (perhaps lightlly off center...) I want be sure I don't mess up this time... 
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
My advice...Go out and purchase the brad point bit and save yourself the headaches. The only question for me is whether one drills before or after finishing. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
Depending on the tuners being used 10mm is a good dia. Brad points walk less in the early stages of drilling and provide a cleaner entry and exit. As long as you are using Schaller, Grover or Gotoh solid peghead tuners, you have the right diameter of bit but despite Stewmac marketing a brad point is a much better option. |
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| Author: | Steve Sollod [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 1:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
Quote: The only question for me is whether one drills before or after finishing. That's a good question. On my last I drilled the holes first, then finished... I noticed that the hole kinda got in the way with spreading the z-poxy and applying Tru-Oil... This time I have finished first and will drill after finishing... |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 1:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
That is an easy call. Before, for a myriad of reasons. Like chipping the finish, clamp maring the finish during drilling, the ability to sting up before finishing if you like doing that for final brace thinning and such. I use disposable ear plugs to fill the tuner holes during finish application. |
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| Author: | Hesh [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 1:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
I am too much of a coward to drill after finishing so..... I mark the holes with an awl and drill starting with a pretty small bit, non-brad-point and use progressively larger bits. I also place masking tape on the back of the head stock to help reduce/prevent blow-out. Typically I will use three different sized bits to sneak up on the final hole size. Also, and I think this came from Howard, I spread some thin CA inside the holes to help keep them from absorbing moisture while wet sanding. |
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| Author: | Barry Daniels [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 2:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
Hesh, I discovered by accident many years ago that using a series of drill bits can result in the center of the hole shifting slightly. The more bits I used, the more misalignment I got. You might want to check if this is happening with your tuner holes. Then again, maybe it was just my setup causing the problem. |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 3:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
I drill before and when finishing I just put those straight round ear plugs in the holes, they drill out by hand really easily after the headstock is finished. On my first two guitars, after finishing I just took the drill bit in my hands and twisted like I was drilling the hole, it cleaned out the finish and filler just fine. One of these days, I'm going to make myself a drilling jig with hardened drill guides so I can just clamp it to the headstock and use and hand drill. But that will take perfect layout (one time only though) of all the holes based on some other measureable location of the headstock. |
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| Author: | wbergman [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
For edge drilled holes, such as classical, if you do not have a jig to center the holes, a really good luthier told me to make one from oak. Drill all three holes through a wide board (two or three inches) using a drill press. If it is not right, throw it out and try again. Then glue that board to another that projects out, so it can be clamped to the work. Then, you can just use a hand drill to drill into the headstock. |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
I'm with the others on using a high quality brad point bit of the correct size. I would strongly advise against starting with a smaller bit. That's just asking for trouble, as well as wasting time. |
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| Author: | old man [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: holes for the tuners |
I recommend the drilling jig from Sylvan Wells site, one time with the 10mm and it is a perfect peghead everytime for the rest of your life. I made two because I use two different peghead shapes. Ron |
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