Official Luthiers Forum!

Hey Guys,

Just finished a rough planing and sticking of my first Top today. Its a three Peice Kashmir Spruce top cause that was all i found here in India. But yea this was my first evr try on my first ever build and wht i particularly found difficult was the plaining of the edges before stciking them.
I found it really difficult to get them a 100 % flush so i think i settles for like 98% . How do you check if ur planing for the joints is absolutely flush ? Do you hold it up against a light after planing before sticking or after its stuck and ready then u hold it up against a light and check for leaks?
Wht is the best method. Im using a # 4 Jack Plane. The best quality available here.

Hey - congrats on joining your first top!

What works for me is to use the plane and then check the joint either against a window with sun light coming in or with a light behind the wood. By the way this process is called "candling."

When you can see no gaps (light coming through) is when you join the top with glue and some kind of clamping method (there are numerous ways to join plates and clamp them).

I do check the joint with candling after the joint/top is dry and cured but it is not necessary if you had no gaps and use a good clamping method.

A #4 plane will work but a #5 is better. It would be a good idea to "tune" your plane too if you don't know for sure that the sole is dead flat.

Thanks hesh

Well i guess the number 4 plane was the issue. Havent had any woodworking exp. whtsoever and went and bought a new plane today to join my tops. Well ive leanr a lil from the carpenters working at home right now building furniture for my parents new house. So that all i know but he told me for wht im trying to do id be better off with a # 5.
Ill go and see if i can trade in my No4 for a 5 tomorrow at the store
And incase theres some light coming in when i check after its been stuck. What are My options
And i msut say you guys here are great . you seem to get the time to come up here and help out ppl like me, who ask questions which im sure uve heard a hundred times befre.
Well hope i can share some pics of my progress soon. If there is any real progress
I do feel a lil blessed though for my first build cause most of the wood i got from various ppl was given to me free. AM waiting on a side of redwood backs and sides and an ebony and rosewood fingerboard which again i should be getting just ike that from a guy whose a bulk supplier and so he doesnt wanna charge me for just one.

Ok well Ill stop typing now and be back soon with questions when i have them.

Cheers,
Ankit

If you use a "shooting board" like the one shown here, you can increase your accuracy a lot.

Ankit my friend we are very happy to help you so no thanks needed here.

Regarding your question as to what to do if there are gaps in your joined top I would start over and joint it again. Let us know what kind of glue that you are using so we can suggest how to proceed?

A guitar top is one of the more frustrating things to get jointed correctly when you are starting out or if you don't have the proper tools..... But it is important that it be gapless and have a good glue joint. Just consider what would happen if it came apart later in your building or a month after you completed the guitar.......

Also maintaining a stable humidity level is also very important and I wanted to mention this in case you have not heard this prior.

Do you have the book by Cumpiano? I think that it shows how to make a shooting board which is a great suggestion from Steve!

here's a jig I built for joining. I used a chunk of Corian others usually use a piece of 1/4" glass for a flat sandpaper surface. I think Luthiery supplies sells the jig as well.

_________________
A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

Hey stee,
That looks great. I didnt really use a shooting board but used a similar method to plain it using the floor as a shooting board but then maybe the floor isnt perfectly flat. Im gonna set up a shooting board if i have to do it aother time.
Ive ordered cumpianos book. But its gonna take about 15 - 20 days before it reaches India so ive been working using preious builds a s a guid and the info on the net. Will do the more serious stuff once i get the book .
So i guess ill need to build the shooting board then unless i can find how to build it online somehwre !
And hesh im using a white carpenter's glue (synthetic resin adhesive). How long do i need to let it set before removing it and checking it ?

cheers

Check out Kathy's video on how to use this jig: http://home.comcast.net/~kathymatsushit ... ointer.mov

_________________
A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

well i checked my boards and there were quite a few gaps in them.
thankfully the peices werent of the best quaity so im going to get a few more and use a combination of the plane and the jointing jig method. and hopefully theyll work out better this time.



On my way to the woodmills

I had another question about these boards that i just seperated. I dont think im gonna use them cause im getting a few more sets by monday so i was wonderin wether i can use the current boards , theyre about 5 mm thick right now, for brace material cause theyre smooth and they split qtite well.
Is it a possibilty ?

cheers

Fine for finger braces and/or soundhole area reinforcement, either as braces or as a patch

Thanks for confirming that

Ricardo I just bought one of those jigs from Luthiersuppliers I look forward to use it and see how it hold up.

Lars

Lars, let me know how you like it. I haven't used mine yet.

_________________
A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

I sure will !! As soon as I get it here I will put it to the test

Lars.