Official Luthiers Forum!

I read Hesh's great neck fitting tute since I just got to do a test fit of my bolt on neck. This is a premade neck and block like in the tute. My dumb question is- my neck joint is very tight, this won't be a problem when aligning it with the centerline of the body will it? In other words it can't be too tight can it?

Oh and btw, where can I get a straight edge/ruler for measuring the distance for my bridge? Would this 'cabinet makers ruler' from Lee Valley work? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... at=1,43513

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Jeremy Douglas

You could also use an Ibex fret rule, available here.

http://www.pilgrimsprojects.biz/fret.html

Martinguitar online also has it.

Any chance you have the precisely made neck and block set from a certain CNC guy who posts here? If so, his fit can be quite tight. In a perfect world, you would be able to get the neck block so accurately set that it would line the neck up with the centerline of the body with the tenon a tight fit in the mortise. In reality, it might need to be loose enough to give you a little wiggle room to get the neck to line up if it doesn't on the first pass, which just doesn't happen, not in my world anyway. I don't see any point in having it any tighter than that.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

"Any chance you have the precisely made neck and block set from a certain CNC guy who posts here? "

I bought my bridge from John but the neck is from LMI

"In a perfect world, you would be able to get the neck block so accurately set that it would line the neck up with the centerline of the body with the tenon a tight fit in the mortise. In reality, it might need to be loose enough to give you a little wiggle room to get the neck to line up if it doesn't on the first pass, which just doesn't happen, not in my world anyway. I don't see any point in having it any tighter than that."

So are you saying I may have to loosen it? How would I do that?

I should have mentioned this is my first build.

Ibex- I'm not sure from the description if that would work for me or not. I'm using a true 25.4" scale not the 25 11/32 they list.

Thanks Todd, $80 seems like alot of money for a ruler but I'll keep it in mind.

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Jeremy Douglas

Those Lee Valley rules are an excellent value, if the manufacturing has been consistent. I have a couple of the LVs that are accurate enough for locating a saddle, but if I am measuring decimal inches (which tends to be more convenient for things like bridge and saddle) my good rules are Rabone and are a pleasure to use. Their legibility is great. I find legibility to be the factor for choosing between the quality brands. Mitzutoyo also reads very well.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

I usually set my bridge position by taking any good straightedge, fitting it against the nut and marking the center of the 12th fret on the straightedge with a pencil. Then a second mark at the compensation length. +/- 0.10". Then put the nut end on the center of the 12th and the second mark over the center of the saddle. You don't need any fancy ruler. At least it's worked fine for me. Obviously you do need fancy rulers for other stuff and I second the LV recommendations.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Seeing as I compensate the fingerboard at the nut as well, I always measure (using those lovely LV rules) from the 12th to set my bridges ... they are more than accurate enough.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Thanks I'll probably order one from LV since I can't see spending over $80 on a ruler right now.

Anybody have thing to add about the tight fit of the neck joint? It may not even be too tight but it wouldn't hurt to learn something

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Jeremy Douglas

Shave the sides of the tenon if it's too tight.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

That's what I figured but I know better that to assume I know what I'm doing. Thanks!

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Jeremy Douglas

Jeremy buddy I just use a 4" sanding block with 120 on it and sand and fit, sand and fit, until I have a slight amount of play. At times too which side you relieve will also help the neck center on the body.