Brock my friend I had one for a while but ended up going with a William's Jig instead and giving the Luthier Tool jig away to someone who had a great use for it - a student that needed one.

The Luthier Tool jig is beautifully made and perhaps the finest dedicated guitar building tool that I have ever had at Heshtone Global headquarters. My concern about it which ultimately caused me to give mine away BEFORE ever trying it on a guitar was that it is possible with any of these types of jigs, there are several that you can make yourself too (Wells/Karol) is that it is possible to lean it inward toward the center of the guitar and take a divot out of your top/back.

Mind you the guys that use these seem to love them and get good enough with them that I hear that this rarely happens - but it is still possible and we have had a member or two who have posted that they took a divot out of a top for this very reason. If you don't keep the bearing arm/guide firmly against the guitar side these can lean inward. Also, a laminate trimmer with a high CG can contribute to the divot syndrome as well but a good old R2D2 (PC 310 that I know you have several of) would be the first choice for me if I used the Luthier Tool jig.

You do have to make a guitar holder and it needs to be not much over 1" high so the bearing arm/guide does not hit it. The jig requires two hand use IMHO at all times so the guitar has to be secured independently. Also once you consider the space requirements of the guitar holder that you have to make the space savings of this jig is reduced.

The micro-adjust was superbly engineered and worked flawlessly and the spiral down-cut bit is an improvement over the binding cutter sets from the usual suspects.

Thinking back I could have made this jig work for me but I was just more comfortable with something more Hesh-proof which the William's jig most certainly is.

I like to use my home made version this way, I think it gives much better control of the cut.

Yep I use it. Due to the fact that your router is going to be top heavy there is a learning curve to how to use it. The key is that you want to keep the bearings in contact with the sides. There is also the miss understanding that the tapered base plate can ride on the top or back. This is not the case. The tapered base plate has a short flat at the bit. Just like a donut only a very small foot print is to be in contact with the top or back. The taper is there to give clearance only. The system works great. I love the fixture but it would be nice if the bearing assembly weighed more to give better balance.

Arnt,
Would you mind posting more pictures of this. I really like this setup and the idea of having this clamped in a vise and turning the guitar around the bit. I saw one of Bob Taylor's videos on his website where it is done similar to what you are doing. I don't have any kind of jig set up for binding yet but do have a PC 310 trimmer.

Anyway, sure would like to know how to make one like yours.