I have two really great ideas , ( 1 ) Build an Electric . Or ( 2 ) Send the wood to me and I will make sure it stays safe for you !
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| Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=31338 |
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| Author: | klooker [ Wed Mar 02, 2011 4:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
I've been sitting on this Bubinga board for about 5 years now. I bought it before I had any interest in guitar building because it's a unique board. It measures 8" X 41" & it's 1-1/2" thick. Big enough for a couple of OM's. My concern is that it's pretty much flat sawn. I've never had good luck resawing flat sawn - it always curls up or cups as it dries. I'm also worried about trying to bend flat sawn wood. What would you do? Thanks, Kevin Looker |
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| Author: | Haans [ Wed Mar 02, 2011 4:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
Make a jewelry box for the wife... |
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| Author: | WudWerkr [ Wed Mar 02, 2011 4:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
I have two really great ideas , ( 1 ) Build an Electric . Or ( 2 ) Send the wood to me and I will make sure it stays safe for you !
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
That would so powerfully tempt me, that I probably would not be able to resist trying to build with it. What you could do is try slicing up half of it, sticker/weight that, and see how it behaves. If you can't build out of it, you've got lotsa beautiful bindings/ headplates at the ready. Or, jewelry box material for sure. Or neck stringers, Or.... Steve |
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| Author: | peterm [ Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
Send it to Borson Resaw and he'll get you the most yield possible. You can always double the sides if concerned. I would build with it in a heart beat! |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
One of my students is building with something very similar right now .. it bends fine, easier than waterfall, doesnt facet either. I cut mine up myself about 4-5 years ago, it stayed flat .. yours might even be from the same tree, who knows ... There is easily two sets in there. |
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| Author: | Mike OMelia [ Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
I am going to offer a radical idea. Because I think you will, as you suspect, have a heck of a time getting it to stabilize, if ever. Cut it into strips 5/4 thick. Rotate them 90 deg to glue. Of course, joint the edges (thus the 5/4). Resaw. Not sure if the glue would survive the bending, though I am sure I have see guitars built like this. Or, use for electrics. Or use bridges and other stuff. I wonder how much I will get hammered for that suggestion?  Mike |
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| Author: | theguitarwhisperer [ Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
I'd build a birdhouse or cigar box with it, cut the rest into sticker strips for wood drying. |
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| Author: | Alain Moisan [ Wed Mar 02, 2011 9:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
Hi Kevin, If you had this board for 5 years, it's pretty dry as far as I'm concern. Go ahead and resaw it and use it for your two OMs. If you bend with a Fox type bender, I wouldn't worry about bending. I've build with bubinga just as flat sawn as this one, by the way. This wood is far too pretty to not make a guitar with it! |
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| Author: | John Arnold [ Thu Mar 03, 2011 2:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
Quote: If you had this board for 5 years, it's pretty dry as far as I'm concern. Go ahead and resaw it and use it for your two OMs. I agree. The only provision I would make is to warm up the back for an hour or so just before bracing it. |
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| Author: | klooker [ Thu Mar 03, 2011 2:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
Thanks for all the replies & encouragement. I hadn't thought about bindings, brige plates etc. if it doesn't work out. Nothing ventured... I just ordered a new woodslicer bandsaw blade. Unfortunately, I need a custom length so it will take about 6 weeks. Kevin Looker |
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| Author: | johnparchem [ Fri Mar 04, 2011 7:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
If I could just talk my wife into allowing me to turn this board into a bunch of guitars. ![[:Y:]](./images/smilies/smiley20.gif "Thumbs Up")
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| Author: | Bobc [ Fri Mar 04, 2011 10:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
Beautiful piece Kevin. Good luck cutting bubinga with a Woodslicer. I never had any luck. |
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| Author: | Brian Forbes [ Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
It's funny how instrument makers see a beautiful table and think of it in terms of how many guitars they can get out of it. I think that you should take that table and re-saw it into back/side sets anyway. I mean, a table that nice, you want to protect it from getting coffee stains or scratches on it...the best way to do that is to get a cheaper table and make guitars out of that one. And something on topic...I would make a guitar out of that piece. It's dry, take time on the bending and maybe leave the sides a bit thicker to avoid cracking them, but soak them much longer so they get wet all the way through right before you bend. I always find my second piece of wood bends far nicer than my first, and I think it's because it spent an extra 20 minutes in the bath. |
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| Author: | klooker [ Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
Bobc wrote: Beautiful piece Kevin. Good luck cutting bubinga with a Woodslicer. I never had any luck. Bob, Thanks for the input. I value your opinion. What type of blade do you prefer for bubinga? I've been using a 1/2" X 4tpi Lenox skip tooth blade with good results in Padauk, Sapele (butter), Wenge and Ovangkol. I've only resawn bubinga once before & it was many years ago. I remember it being very hard but I don't remember it being oily which seems to cause more trouble as it cakes up on the blade. I haven't used the woodslicer but I guess I've been taken in by the marketing and the 1/32" kerf. Kevin Looker |
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| Author: | Mike OMelia [ Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
I am not sure what blade Bob will suggest, but I would have no fear attacking it with a Resaw King blade from Laguna. Look at the Borsin videos. Mounting the board to a stable back board will keep the board from moving as you slice it. Let us know how it goes! Mike |
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| Author: | Bobc [ Sat Mar 05, 2011 8:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
As Todd suggests carbon steel should get you through that board. Ovankol is similar to bubinga so you should be fine. Another nice blade is the Lenox bi-metal. I don't want to recommend carbide as the cost is quite high for occasional re-sawing. Easy to cut? Not in my opinion. I think of woods like mahog, walnut, cherry, oak, IRW, etc. as easy to cut. Bubinga is hard stuff. I really don't know why people don't use it more often. It's a great tonewood. |
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| Author: | forgottenwoods [ Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
The RewsawKing blade cuts Bubinga without any trouble. If you want to see Bubinga being sliced in our shop watch this video... https://www.facebook.com/video/video.ph ... 4&comments |
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| Author: | klooker [ Sat Mar 05, 2011 11:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
I'd love to try a Resaw King but it would set me back about $400  The carbon steel Lenox & Starrett blades I've been using work pretty well when they're fresh & sharp and they're roughly $30. I'll stick with them for now. Thanks for all the replies. Kevin Looker |
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| Author: | Bobc [ Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
Nice Lance. I've had problems with the re-saw king dulling very rapidly. Have they changed the blade? |
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| Author: | forgottenwoods [ Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
Bobc wrote: Nice Lance. I've had problems with the re-saw king dulling very rapidly. Have they changed the blade? They actually did change the blades last spring. Thinner kerf now and an actual carbide tooth created with some new German technology. We used to have a horrible problem with the blades dulling quickly until we got the cutting technique fine tuned. They will still dull quickly if you make a mistake, but the smooth cut and thin kerf make the extra expense of the blade worth while. |
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| Author: | forgottenwoods [ Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
klooker wrote: I'd love to try a Resaw King but it would set me back about $400 The carbon steel Lenox & Starrett blades I've been using work pretty well when they're fresh & sharp and they're roughly $30. I'll stick with them for now. Thanks for all the replies. Kevin Looker How much is one saved set of wood worth? Might not take too long to recover the $400? But in reality if you don't have your saw set up correctly the ResawKing would not be a wise investment. |
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| Author: | klooker [ Sun Mar 06, 2011 8:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
forgottenwoods wrote: How much is one saved set of wood worth? Might not take too long to recover the $400? But in reality if you don't have your saw set up correctly the ResawKing would not be a wise investment. Are you saying a saved set because of a reduced kerf? The Resaw King has a kerf of 0.041 while the garden variety carbon steel blades take out about 1/16" which is 0.0215" more. After 6 slices the resaw king would save just over 1/8". In a production setting, I think the resaw king or a comparable carbide blade would be the way to go: less waste & less time spent changing blades & dialing in the saw. For occasional resawing of mostly "common" woods or a single board of something special, I can't justify it unless I'm missing something. I will admit that most resaw mishaps I've experienced were a result of not changing the blade before it got too dull. ![[headinwall]](./images/smilies/headbangwalluf8.gif "Mad") Kevin Looker |
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| Author: | Mike OMelia [ Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bubinga Board - What Would You Do? |
klooker wrote: I'd love to try a Resaw King but it would set me back about $400 The carbon steel Lenox & Starrett blades I've been using work pretty well when they're fresh & sharp and they're roughly $30. I'll stick with them for now. Thanks for all the replies. Kevin Looker I know where you could get 4 Resaw King blades for that much money. I have an 18" Jet, 137" , 3/4" carbide blade and it costs me $95. Have several on the wall. All blades up to 160" are $95. PM me if u are interested. Mike |
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