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| Author: | Colin North [ Sat Jun 22, 2013 3:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Bending form construction |
Those who make their own forms, what do you use to hold the two "outlines" together. I see for example that Bruescreek Guitars use metal tubing, and I believe I have heard of people using aluminum "strip", (maybe about 3/4" x 1/8" on "edge") Just wondered what you guys use, and do you secure them in some way, e.g. are epoxy/superglue fit for temperatures involved, or do you use screws/pins, etc? |
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| Author: | Clinchriver [ Sat Jun 22, 2013 4:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
I have a Blues creek bender, it came with one bending pattern D size, with the 1/2 conduit to hold it together, I misplaced the conduit and substituted 1/2" poplar dowels. I've built O, OO, OOO/OM & Gibson L-OO/Nick Lucas bending patterns using the dowels works great. |
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| Author: | TimAllen [ Sat Jun 22, 2013 4:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
On my first one I used 3/4" hardware store dowels, made of some kind of some type of inexpensive Asian wood. They are glued with Titebond but I imagine a friction fit would work. For my second form, I didn't use spacers--I followed Todd Stock's tutorial on this forum, which suggests using thee layers of 3/4" plywood. Having tried it, I am partial to that method and would recommend you consider it if you haven't yet. Of course, both types seem to work pretty well. |
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| Author: | Clay S. [ Sat Jun 22, 2013 4:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
I use 6 pieces of 3/4 inch plywood and make a solid block form. Sometimes I cover it with HPL if I am also going to use it for molded sides. I use kerf core as a "clamping blanket" over the heat blanket or as an outside form for molded sides. I use titebond to glue up the block form. The forms are a bit heavy but "solid" and easy to make. |
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| Author: | Joe Beaver [ Sat Jun 22, 2013 5:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
I too use a solid form. I use Baltic ply on the outside and MDF pieces for the center. I make it with a cavity in the center so the center pieces are lighter. Then I cover it with a stainless steel slat |
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| Author: | Tom West [ Sat Jun 22, 2013 7:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
Solid form........! Tom |
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| Author: | mkellyvrod [ Sat Jun 22, 2013 8:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
I initially started with the two outer forms with steel rods between per the plans I used. However, I have since switched to 3 forms with plywood spacers connecting the three pieces. I think you get better support across the width of the sides as you bend. A solid form would be even better. This assumes you're bending with a blanket and not using light bulbs. |
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| Author: | Colin North [ Sat Jun 22, 2013 11:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
For this one I want to try both heating blanket and light bulbs. |
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| Author: | Trevor Gore [ Sun Jun 23, 2013 7:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
Colin North wrote: Those who make their own forms, what do you use to hold the two "outlines" together. Double width Fox bender, heating with globes, 12 off, 1/2" steel bars, 300mm long, push fit. One set of bars for many different forms so that the forms store flat. It takes about a minute to assemble a form by threading the bars in. |
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| Author: | Fred Tellier [ Sun Jun 23, 2013 7:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
I have always used two forms with 1/2" wood dowels instead of steel but on my last form I did it with 3 forms and only a few dowels to hold it together. This will not work with bulbs but I think the advent of the heating blanket being available make the bulbs obsolete. I always thought that bulbs were a dangerous and unreliable way to create heat. Here is a shot of my Bouzouki form and outside mold. 
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| Author: | James Ringelspaugh [ Sun Jun 23, 2013 7:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
Trevor Gore wrote: Colin North wrote: Those who make their own forms, what do you use to hold the two "outlines" together. Double width Fox bender, heating with globes, 12 off, 1/2" steel bars, 300mm long, push fit. One set of bars for many different forms so that the forms store flat. It takes about a minute to assemble a form by threading the bars in. This. No need to glue in the bars unless you have way too much storage space. |
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| Author: | Rodger Knox [ Mon Jun 24, 2013 1:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
Trevor Gore wrote: Colin North wrote: Those who make their own forms, what do you use to hold the two "outlines" together. Double width Fox bender, heating with globes, 12 off, 1/2" steel bars, 300mm long, push fit. One set of bars for many different forms so that the forms store flat. It takes about a minute to assemble a form by threading the bars in. I do pretty much the same, 1/2" plywood with 20 1/2" steel bars, use the same 20 bars for jumbo, dred, L-00, and parlor. I still use light bulbs for heat. I'd go to a solid form if I used a blanket. |
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| Author: | Clay S. [ Mon Jun 24, 2013 6:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
One thing I forgot to mention, and another reason I use a solid form, is that I make the block form and the outside mold at the same time. I cut just inside the outline on 6 pieces of 3/4 inch plywood, and then between routing and sanding to true up the patterns I have an outside mold and a block form of about the right dimensions. |
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| Author: | unkabob [ Mon Jun 24, 2013 10:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Bending form construction |
I use a light bulb base with two 150 watt bulbs and build all my molds to fit on or around that base. I build the side forms from 3/4" particle board lined with aluminum foil (spray adhesive). The forms are separated using 3/4"square wood spacers drilled finishing nails (aluminum foil preferred) two inches between them. Flashing aluminum covers the mold. It has worked for me so far. Bob 
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