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PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 11:27 pm 
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I apologize if this has been asked and answered. I decided to tape off the bridge area before finishing. You can kinda see what's going on in this picture.

Image

I've been wet sanding with ok results, but I can't figure out how to level this area right by the bridge. I thought about trying to get the corner of a scraper or razor blade in there, but that scares me. I could also remove the tape and it wouldn't be that hard to sand it back, but then I think I'd have to retape it to put on another coat.

Surely I'm not the first person to encounter this. What's the standard procedure?

(By the way, this is a Tru-Oil finish.)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 11:28 pm 
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I should note - that picture was taken during wet sanding, mid-slurry.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 7:16 am 
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That is the main reason I do not tape off for bridges. But that doesn't help much..... At this point I see two options.

Pull the tape as you suggested, scrape the edge down with a razor blade. But now you will need to do something to protect the bare wood from wet sanding and buffing or it will become contaminated and the glue will not hold.So I would put a wash coat of shellac down on the bare wood, sand , buff, and then scrape up the shellac.

Or, you could try and sand the whole enchilada flat just like it is and see what happens. You may be able to buff without to much of a ridge at the edge and then pull the tape. Or it could make a sticky mess......

Maybe someone else will have a better suggestion, either way, good luck.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 7:27 am 
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Looks like blue masking tape. When I used the blue tape, I would mask about 1/8" smaller than the bridge footprint. Then I could wet sand up to where the bridge would be. Now I use the Frisket film that's .001" thick and level right over the masked area, still staying 1/8" smaller, then scraping the last bit of finish to the final placement of the bridge.

If you masked right to the bridge footprint it will be difficult to sand the little fillet of finish between the tape and body. You might consider scoring around the tape and remove it, then replace it with frisket film, then level right over with out water. Or make a new bridge slightly oversize, which I do not prefer.

Chuck

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 8:55 am 
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It sounds like either way, you guys are saying I need to take that tape off. Anyone else have a good method for handling this?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 11:01 am 
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I mask the bridge area, then after spraying I remove the tape.Sand the finish .You`ll be able to level it this way.Then buff it out being careful to avoid a lot of compound on the bridge area.after buffing I clean the bridge area with naptha and then sand the area lightly with 180 to ruff it up a little before gluing.I`ve never had a bridge come loose yet .

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 12:15 pm 
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David
It appears the bridge is already glued down or are my eyes deceiving me?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 2:13 pm 
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Joe Beaver wrote:
David
It appears the bridge is already glued down or are my eyes deceiving me?

Joe, I thought the same at first!
But I think it is just an optical illusiion - It's not a great picture, but when I look and focus, I can make out 3 pieces of tape across a bridge shaped outline on the guitar top. The bit at the back looks like the view of a bridge prifile from the fretboard.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 9:32 pm 
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Yes, it's a lousy picture from a cell phone held under a light bulb. That's just blue tape. I took Brian's advice on this one, and since I had trouble finding Frisket Film today, I just put some shellac over the unfinished area. After a couple more wet sanding coats, I think it's gonna be ok. I appreciate the help.

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