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I did my best to mask my FB, but I still got bleed under the tape. Now I need some suggestions for removing the finish right up against the frets. If it helps, the finish is west systems epoxy, 2lb shellac, and em6000. Here's a pic:



Thanks for the help.

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I use a straight edge razor blade as a scraper

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Razor blade as a scrapper. I add masking tape with only 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the blade exposed.

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Kevin Mason
Mason Guitars and Ukuleles on Facebook
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What John said. That's a lot of finish. I find taping up to either side of the fret and rubbing the tape down with a small stick of wood helps. Then tape over the fret and do the same.

Yes sir.............!
Tom

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Single edged razor blade also used as a scraper using the entire blade.

You can finish up with small wood blocks that are radiused to match the board with 220 on them. This is a Frank Ford method, the blocks, he's not keen on scrapers for this because of chattering.

In addition to what everyone has said about the razor blades, I find that a sharp chisel can often work well as a scraper. I like using my ¼" or even ⅛" chisels when I get up around the higher frets.

I don't think anyone has mentioned this, but I always make sure to break the finish at the edge of the fretboard before cleaning around fret ends. If your finish is wrapped around the edge of the fretboard onto the face, and you try to scrape it off the face you run the risk of pulling up finish along the edge of the board. Breaking the finish is easily done when the fret ends are beveled. Or if they are beveled before the finish is applied I just run my file lightly over the edge to break the finish.

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Josh House

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I use a tool they use in the Martin Factory. I was shown it's use by Dale Bartholomew who was a supervisor in the Martin finishing area for years. It has more stiffness than a razor and I was amazed how well it works. It can be seen here (go to the 37:30 mark of the video) scraping bindings after the body has been pore filled:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxR_cvJoci8

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Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC

Is it a notched scraper? I made and used one an electric guitar after spraying a burst. It sure beat trying to tape the bindings.

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No, it's basically like using a chisel backwards as a scraper but the metal is a little thinner. Got this pic off Frank Ford's site he uses one too.

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Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC

Can you post a link to the radiused blocks that Frank Ford makes?

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yep

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Hey Chris: I just did a couple of searches of Frank's posts and can't find it.... I also went to FRETS and could not find it there either. I am sure that he posted some pics and likely last fall IIRC.

Maybe someone can help me find it, please? Thanks.

Anyway they are simply small wooden blocks that are smaller than the distance between frets so that with sand paper (wonder if this will offend the plane guys..... ) attached you sand between the frets.

On constant radius boards this would be a pretty easy shop-made tool and could be done on compound radius too with perhaps 1/2" thick super dense rubber blocks that can still conform to the radius.

Wait till you're ready to do the fretwork. All that will come off if you bevel the edge of the fingerboard/frets with a bastard file and/or block with sandpaper Less risk of chip-out than scraping! Whatever is left over can be scraped with a good razor blade.

A good example of why I prefer to fret after finishing. Both ways work of course, but for me fretting is the 3rd to last step.

I break the finish with 400 grit paper and then scrape clean. No need to over complicate it.

Ditto

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Ken Cierp

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