What I really like about the way you’re using the spacers is by putting them between the upper deck and thumb screws when it’s in the low position. I don’t use spacers in mine, but have thumb screws on both sides of the upper deck. It takes forever to change the height. I’ll be borrowing this.

The way I use them, there’s no storing the spacers. They are always in use.

I also like that booster seat, Steve. Do you secure it to the deck, or does it just stay put when I use? I have removable studs in the lower deck of my deck that match up with holes in the bottoms of my dishes. I felt that I needed these, because the dishes moved a bit without them.

Just wanted to bring some attention to this type of handle. Not sure how readily available they are, but i purchased some for our lab shakers.
It has a thread type that allows it to travel freely up and down the length of the rod.

May prove useful to someone.

I love my go bar deck, but as much as I love it, I was able to significantly improve it yesterday with a minor tweak that some of you might find useful.

I use the go bar deck to both glue braces to plates and glue plates to rims. The lower deck and upper deck are separated by four ¼” threaded rods inside four pieces of thick wall plastic conduit:



Rather than build a booster seat for when I want to use the deck for gluing braces on plates, I opted to design 4” tall spacers made of the same conduit, which you can see in the above photo. When I am gluing plates to rims, the spacers go below the upper deck. When I am gluing braces to plates, the spacers go above the upper deck.

The downside to that design was that I had to take the upper deck off in order to raise it or lower it (spacers below or spacers above the upper deck, respectively).

I fixed that problem by replacing the conduit spacers with some 2” diameter poplar dowel stock I had sitting around for some project or another. You can buy it at Lowe’s. It is probably meant for table legs. The big difference between the plastic conduit and the dowels is that I cut notches in the dowels, so that I don’t have to take the upper deck off in order to raise or lower it.

Anyway, here are photos of the deck with the poplar spacers. First, with the upper deck in the upper position:



Next, with the upper deck in the lower position:



Here are close-ups of the poplar spacers:









These were easily made in a few minutes. Cut to length on the table saw, drill the holes on the drill press, and cut the notches on the bandsaw. Easy peasy.

I can now change the position of the upper deck in less than a minute.