Official Luthiers Forum!

The previous thread got me thinking about the Japanese saws with the depth stops. How does that work with a standard miter box? My thought is you would need to make some extra clearance for the stops. I haven't seen this on Google so I'm wondering what you guys might do. Show me your miter boxes.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

I'd be interested in this technique, too.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

If it's the saw with the little adjustable plexiglass stop I don't think those were designed to be used with a miter box. The miter box would be the depth stop using the spine of the saw.

I don't have the Japanese saw but rather the traditional push saw, if that is what they are called, with the depth stop. Using a square and a sharp Exacto I mark out the lines and then just cut them. I used to use a miter but found that cutting by hand was quicker and just as accurate.

as has been said the spine of the saw running along the top of the box acts as a depth stop. Shims under the fretboard adjust for depth of cut.

Cheers Dave

Also I find the folding wedges good way to lock the board against the back of the box once it is lined up. Dave

I have used the 9V and 12V makita saws with the plain steel 3 3/8" blade to cut fret slots - kind of in between the hand saw and table saw methods - a "battery powered handsaw" method.

I used a pull stroke saw from Brazil, I think, Hosco brand? It cut nice. Pencil line set with a caliper and a masking tape stop. I watched the line and the tape on the left side.

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Why be normal?