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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 3:51 pm 
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Any secrets? This is tough stuff!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 4:00 pm 
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I thought the purpose of the uv-cured finishes was to avoid the additional work step of buffing: blow on, cure, next!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 4:02 pm 
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And then you wake up!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 4:28 pm 
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All I know is Brian Howard said it takes him hours and hours, (don't remember the exact number) to buff his guitars. I know he uses 2 part and UV cured so I assume he is talking about those products.

You might want to check his site. He has tons of finish info on it.

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These users thanked the author Joe Beaver for the post: Pmaj7 (Wed Dec 23, 2020 4:31 pm)
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 4:31 pm 
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Okay, I figured it out. I was using my regular Menzerna fine and extra fine after 3k Kovax touch up. Just had to press really hard and stay on one spot for a while.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 5:35 pm 
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I use what Brian showed me which is the 113GZ, P204 and then GW16 Menzerna. The 113GZ I spend about 20 minutes on a body and less on a neck. The P204 about 10-15 and the same for the GW16. It takes about about hour to an hour and a half to get all the way through the cycle.

I use Simtec materials.

I sand 400-1200 when leveling. It goes pretty quick.

Hope that helps.

Brad


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 6:35 pm 
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I have no experience with UV cured anything. However, when I buff out my nitro lacquer guitars it usually takes me all of 8 hours to do. Finishes are labor intensive, no matter what material is used.

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These users thanked the author Chris Pile for the post: Pmaj7 (Wed Dec 23, 2020 8:07 pm)
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 10:49 pm 
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Thanks everybody! Yep, looks like you just have to be extra aggressive on it.

It was a touch up around the fretboard and pick guard areas, so it was hard to direct that pressure right next to the fretboard and right next to the pickup. It was taking off some of the gold plating as well, getting too close to it with the extended hover time. No problem in the open areas though, just hitting it hard until it shined. In the end I think it was satisfactory.

Has anyone used a little Dremel buffing wheel with some compound on it to get those hard to reach places?

Pat

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These users thanked the author Pmaj7 for the post: bcombs510 (Thu Dec 24, 2020 8:24 am)
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 11:22 pm 
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How fast is your buffing wheel?

At least the nice thing about tough finishes is you can be more aggressive with it.

I found with GW16 best speed seems to be above 1000rpm (for a 14 inch wheel). In fact I spun mine at 1500rpm and it really makes a huge difference. If you are using a tough finish then you may want to start with some kind of coarse compounds, then use GW16.

I'm thinking of UV finishes as well, what wavelength of UV light does it take to cure it? I have a UV flood light that shines at 405nm. I used it for silkscreen emulsion.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2020 4:55 am 
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Cure buddy used by Brian Howard is 365 nanometer broad band Primary UVA & B

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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