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I'm finally getting around to buffing a guitar I refinished in lacquer for a friend about a year ago. It's had plenty of time to shrink I did most of the sanding with Micro Mesh up to 4000 grit and following up with a ROS with buffing pads and Menzerna 2500. I found there were still some scratches so I ordered the 1000. I also have the 3500 for final polish. What I've seen so far using just the 2500 is a beautiful mirror shine and I think the ROS is going to work out great once I get rid of any sanding scratches.

I really want this to work and not have to find a place to store a giant buffer when I'm not using it. I used to have the SM buffer and though it was fast and did a great job, I'm not in a hurry to go back to it. Seems like a production machine which I am not. I have to buff a guitar once a year if I'm lucky.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

I have both a buffer with the big flannel wheels and an Adams Mini Swirl Killer (thanks to Barry Daniels for the tip on that one). I went back and forth a bit, but I definitely prefer the Adams. I figured out a good way to hold the guitar while I am buffing it with the Adams. It feels a lot safer, and it does a great job.

I think your point about big buffers being production machines is a valid thing for small time builders (like me) to watch out for. There are factory processes that are also the best way for a small builder to do something, and there are factory processes that are not. It sometimes takes some experimenting to figure that out.

Don, I also picked up the Adams unit. I've been using it as a final step with glaze to spit shine the instrument. What compounds are you using with it? I'm thinking I may switch to it for at least the waist on ukes. I have a hard time getting in there with the buffer.

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Brad--

So far, I have followed the advice Barry gave about compounds and pads:

1. Mequiars 105 cutting compound on a Meguiars G3507 compound power pad.

2. 3M Perfect-It Ultra Fine (#3) on a 3M Perfect-It 4" foam pad.

Those worked well for me on my most recent guitar, but I might switch that up in the future. I have been watching Jeff Jewitt's new course on level sanding, wet sanding and buffing, which is part of Robbie O'Brien's video series. Based on what I am learning there, I might change to using all one brand and one type of pad, like the 3M series. We'll see.

I have been using a 5" PC right angle ROS with a wool bonnet for buffing, because that is what I used for sanding general woodwork and lutherie projects. The smaller diameter of the Adams machine looks attractive because it looks like it would get into some tighter spaces. I may try making a smaller pad for the PCs that I have.
I wonder if anyone has tried mounting a lamb's wool paint roller cover on a rolling pin sander and buffing with that?
For me, adopting factory processes depends on the cost in money and space. I need to justify to myself that the investment of money and shop space will be paid back within a reasonable amount of time. I have gone down the rabbit hole too often in the past.
Someone gave me a small buffing arbor and some flannel buffs. I clamped it to the edge of my bench along with a small motor and belt to run it and buffed some brasses with it. I haven't decided if I is worth trying to set it up permanently somewhere.

If I can't get a good shine with my ROS then I'll try the Adams Mini Swirl Killer. I don't think I'm going to have a problem. I'm just waiting on the delivery of the 1000 grit compound.

My other thought was to use 1000 and 2000 grit sanding disks before going to the compounds.
Running out of elbow grease

_________________
Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!