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Just got this delivered and assembled today. I have an electrician coming Monday to add the outlet.

I know a bunch of you have these and are using with 6” SDS pipe. What adapter did you use to get from the 7” inlet on the cyclone to your 6” main run?

You can see I just have to connect the cyclone inlet to the 6” pipe directly above it.

I don’t have the mental strength to change my main run from 6” to 7” like Oneida recommends.

Brad


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No problem not using the 7” main run as it can only be a limited length before you have to reduce it to 6” (at least mine did about 15 years ago). I ran a 7” duct about 8’ to my downdraft table to get max cfm, I used a 7”x7”x6” wye to connect from there. Also used a reducing wye going the other direction since I run my ductwork down two different walls. You can see how the cyclone is shoehorned into the corner. Except for the downdraft table run it is all 6” ducting.
I bought most of my ductwork from Oneida although I made some adapters for some of my tools. Oneida also sells a 7” to 6” reducer. Try to avoid right angles and use 45 degree turns in your ductwork.

Ok, it’s early and still working on my first cup of coffee. I see you’re just trying to connect to your existing ductwork. You may need to get an adapter made or make one yourself that will fit over the plastic and just attach with short self-tapping sheet metal screws. I sealed all of my duct joints with metal duct tape. I’ve made machine adapters from ductwork from Home Depot- cut it down and reshape it.

Steve

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Brad—

Glad to see you had a productive evening! It was great spending time with you and Zac yesterday afternoon.

To your question, I don’t have the exact same dust collector, but I had the same issue, along with the related issue of a weird angle shift from the 6” pipe to the dust collector intake. The solution was a rubber plumbing connector, the kind that has pipe straps on both ends. They are made with various sized openings at both ends, including 6” on one end and 7” on the other end. Being rubber, they can bend to accommodate any little angle shift that is needed. It was perfect for my need. Maybe it will work for you, too.

Oneida themselves can be quite helpful if you’re buying the parts from them…

Yeah, if they sell the fitting I may just call them on Monday. Here is an another pic. The previous collector I just ran 6” flex hose from the circled point down to the inlet. It made a nice sweeping curve and seemed to work well.

If you see any concerns about layout I’m happy to take the feedback.

I have 6 tools total connected and I only have one gate open at a time usually.









Brad


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Generally speaking, flex hose is rough on air flow. Maybe another pair of 45 degree fittings, with the rubber connector at the connection to the dust collector intake, would work better. Or maybe a short bit of flex hose is not a big enough problem to worry about. For the intake (as opposed to sending out to the filter), I would opt for the fittings instead of the flex hose.

That big black monster is going to scare the grandkids!

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

Hi Brad,

I use one from these guys. https://www.fernco.com/products/flexibl ... -couplings

Best, M

Same to you, Don! Good to catch up. I had just enough energy to push through the assembly. My teenager helped a bunch with the lifting. Can’t wait to power this thing up!!


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Thanks, folks! OLF FTW!



Thanks, Don. This is where I landed. Is that what you had in mind?






Thanks, Michael! This worked perfectly. Menards had the right Fernco reducer. The model I needed was P1002-66




For future folks, it’s here - https://www.fernco.com/dimensional-draw ... 02/1002-66

And here - https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/p ... 399646.htm

Brad


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It worked, so yes, that’s exactly what I had in mind.

Glad it all came out right!

Looks good Brad.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

One thing to keep in mind, you want the air flow to be a laminar as possible entering the cone of the cyclone. Any turbulence will hurt separation efficiency. Would be best if you could get 6' or more straight run into the mouth of the cyclone. All of those bends just before the entrance will cause more dust to get into thd filters instead of the dust bin.

That’s good to know! Space and layout prevents me from having a long straight run like that. I’ll just have to be mindful to watch the filter bin.

The tools I’m mostly collecting from are sanders. Drum sander, combo sander, etc… but also a bandsaw and jointer. The jointer is very rarely used. Nothing with a lot of chips. Does that change anything regarding the need for a straight run into the cyclone?


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Brad, That beast makes my dust collector look like a toy...

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Shop looks clean so it must be working !

I upgraded to this from a DIY cyclone w/ harbor freight motor. Actually the DIY setup was really nice. This is an over-purchase for sure with the future in mind. It almost didn’t fit!

Somehow it reminds me of the shadow monster from Stranger Things.




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Nothing to contribute to the cyclone discussion but really liking the shots of your shop, Brad!

I see some of your Wall Control is setup already too.

Yes, the finer the dust, the more important it is to minimize turbulence into the cyclone. Big chips don't care, fine dust from the sander is harder to separate, so more dependant on a good setup.