Thank you.
Actually, I am not a luthier, and I really prefer to start from something that is close to fit in my guitar without too much work.
I'd like a nut I have to sand just a bit the side or the height, and the same for the saddle, size close to the original saddle and ready intonation shape.

I can wait to decide about bridge pins.

Some effort is ok, I knew it.
I just want to get something will be fit fine, and not totally useless and wrong.
Especially about the saddle, I should replace it with something different, if you know this guitar (or seen the picture in the thread a linked early).
I want to be sure I can find something that is at least compatible with the bridge and a new piezo, without buy a totally blank saddle (because I can't work on it) and make a new piezo sounds with the new saddle without bad surprise.

I really don't get where's the problem. I watched several video where nuts and saddles are replaced in acoustic guitar just after sand them a bit, or something more then a bit, but just that.

Where's the problem? Is it the saddle+piezo combo?

I think this is your second go around on these questions, so I’m not surprised some members have lost track and given you advice that may not seem relevant.

As I said on the first go round, your Takamine has a synthetic saddle that is molded to be used with an integrated piezo. If all of the shims have already been removed, you’re essentially at the end of the road. I doubt you can remove enough off the top of the saddle to lower your strings much more — that will require a neck angle adjustment that is NOT an easy task on a Takamine. I turn away those jobs.

You had a link to a company in the UK that sells a bone integrated saddle. Clever. The price was not unreasonable, given what is involved to make them. If they sell different heights, you might write to ask if their product can give you lower than what you already have (personally, I kinda doubt it).

As for the nut, the Graphtech synthetic nuts are not “high end”, but commonly used by many factories. BUT, they are NOT ready to drop in. To adjust string height, you don’t normally “sand off the bottom”. Rather you need to adjust the depth of the string slots — a job best left to a professional with the training and, especially, the required files.


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Sad to say, but my feeling is the OP lacks basic knowledge about the matter at hand, asks in a specialist's forum about his concerns, then refuses to believe what said specialists say and insists in his beliefs. This is not some Facebook group, the people here know their stuff. I have stopped trying to help the OP for this reason. He needs to start at level 0 and learn how we do a setup.


Pierre
Guitares Torvisse

Sorry about that, this is not what I intended at all. I'll retract. Apologies to all that may have been offended.


Pierre
Guitares Torvisse