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I used Rock Hard long ago until they changed the recipe, then used SW Fast Dry Oil Varnish. Now it's no longer made so I switched to ACE A276 interior oil varnish, now that is no longer available. What are you guys using for an oil varnish?
Thanks

I've of epiphanes being used. Laurent Brondel sprays it to good effect,1 part varnish 1 part hardener, 1 part thinner IIRC.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Isn't Epiphanes a marine (spar) varnish?

Crich yes it is a spar varnish. I have used it with very good results. be sure and get the correct one as there are many varieties of Epiphanies. Gives it a really luscious tone. it will darken up your wood a bit. It's self leveling so it's really easy to use a foam brush.

Pat Foster used to use a varnish finish. he would prob have some good input. Bruce Sexuar also uses a varnish finish but I think he makes up his own recipes.

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https://www.instagram.com/fostinoguitars/
https://www.facebook.com/PuraVidaUkuleles/

International Violin. Several brands.

Has anyone have any experience with a product called Saman Oil hybrid varnish?

The most recent version of Bruce Sexauer's varnish schedule I've seen states: "Currently, I am using 2 different varnishes, and mixing them together. One is the Ace Hardware Store in-house product: Gloss Interior solvent based  Varnish Product 276A111 (ACE16389). Some stores say it doesn’t exist, but it does. The other product is technically a Urethane, and is made by Murdoch in Vermont. They call it Uralkyd-500 Floor finish (Gloss). It dries faster and harder than the Ace product, and mixing them seems to mix their qualities in direct proportion to their quantities. I find this useful in manipulating tone through controlling structure. The viscosity of the Ace product when fresh is about right, and can be maintained by adding small amounts of true turpentine. I also add about 10% by volume of acetone in the interest of getting a better bond between coat and avoiding witness lines." You can contact Bruce through his website. Bruce is also in the process of producing a book about his approach to luthierie, and I'm sure that will cover finishing.

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Tim Allen
"Never hurry, never rest."

I have used the Epiphanes a couple of times with good results.I used a foam brush and sanded and rubbed it out to a pleasing gloss...
Here’s a guitar I made using that varnish.

Just the epiphanes straight or with thinner and hardener etc?

A little thinner (epiphenes brand) a little acetone, a little japan drier and a little Penetrol-no hardener

Thanks it's never the easy answer with finishing is it. Would you recommend it?

I've just received a jar of varnish from Earthpaint. I decided to try it on the advice of a luthier in Japan. It's a gloss finish made from cashew oil. The results I've see seem to show a very nice finish.
Manuel Valasquez and his son used Pratt&Lambert 38 for years, but I believe is was discontinued.

Brent

Not a guitar, but here is an exaple of Epiphanes on Koa. Applied by brush, flowed out very nicely. This was done 30 years ago, so their formulas may have changed.

I’ve used Behlens Table Top, RockHard, P&L38, Ace, Murdoch’s, General EnduroVar 1 and Epiphanes but had drying issues with Epiphanes over RW and Ebony which was also extremely Amber. The last batch of guitars I built were finished with Murdoch’s UR500. I found it to be less transparent and lower gloss sheen than their Table Top varnish. All varnishes are difficult to spray, to keep it wet and to keep it from falling on the floor. It also takes at least 2 months cure time before most varnishes will not imprint from rubber or case foam. Of all that I’ve used Table Top by Murdoch’s is my favorite.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Super interested in hearing how this works out for you. I’ve been interested in that myself. Please keep us posted.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

I've been using the Sutherland Welles U500 varnish and am very happy with it. I did tests side by side with their Tabletop varnish and found the opposite of Tim, I liked the U500 better.

I brush it on and it self levels very well, equal to any sprayed coat I have ever done. It does require a slow moving rotisserie to dry, though, without sagging on the sides. I apply it over a thin shellac seal coat (over an epoxy pore fill) and have had no issues with the varnish drying over that. I did have issues once with CA accelerator, but only that one time. I've buffed after 2 weeks and not had issues although I usually try to wait 3 after the final coat. I sand in between coats with Assilex dry.

People say it dries very hard but I don't think so, it scratches and dings pretty easily. Its hard enough for a guitar finish (better than straight shellac, at least) but it is by no means a hard finish. All my guitars coming back showing some playwear. That doesn't bother me at all. I've never had one show imprints from a case.

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Burton
http://www.legeytinstruments.com
Brookline, MA.