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Any special prep I need to keep in mind when Glueing up cocobolo? I've seen several posts about its oily properties, so I'm wondering how to proceed. I'm planning on a neck laminate and bindings with it.
Thanks.
-j.

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“If God dwells inside us like some people say, I sure hope He likes enchiladas, because that's what He's getting”
-jack handy

I have only ever had one problem using LMI white glue with Cocobolo and I blame myself for that, it was clearly a starved joint.
That said, I am currently building 4 Cocobolo guitars and they have all been glued up using Westsystems epoxy.

For Bindings I use CA and wick it into the joint.

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

I have used Titebond and HHG and never had a problem. When I first started using Coccobolo some builders I resprect very much gave me some good advice. Glue the wood right after jointing or sanding making sure it is a clean fresh surface, and despite all the advice to wipe down with Alcohol or acetone don't. What I was told is that doing so does temporarily remove oil from the joint but it drwaws even more oil from the wood into the joint very quickly. Using this advice I have never had a problem.

I have used titebond without any problems. But I too have switched to West Systems Epoxy to glue up my backs.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

[Quote=Brock Poling]But I too have switched to West Systems Epoxy to glue up my backs.[/QUOTE]

Do you just use West Systems epoxy on Cocobolo or for other stuff too? Why the change?

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Brad
Avon, OH

I use epoxy for the back joint and the blocks. My necklaminates have been done with regular titebond. I glues the liners, tops and backs with titebond on Coco. I think one of the keys is what Richard said, you want to glue the joint soon after it has been jointed.

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Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
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House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
http://www.houseguitars.com

[QUOTE=Brad Way] [Quote=Brock Poling]But I too have switched to West Systems Epoxy to glue up my backs.[/QUOTE]

Do you just use West Systems epoxy on Cocobolo or for other stuff too? Why the change?[/QUOTE]

I glue all the backs with it now. Let's just say I was sold on its merits (plus it is a dream to clean up). I have no problem with other glues and I still use LMI white, CA, fish, and hide glues in the construction process.Brock Poling38979.8954282407

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Epoxy dries extremely hard and seems to be unaffected by the resins in cocobolo. It also doesn't creep, which seems to be an issue when using titebond on cocobolo.

_________________
"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

Is there a particular mix/formula/etc. from West, or is it just the regular old adhesive type?
Brock, what makes it easier to clean up? While it is curing, or after its hardened?
Thanks.
-j.

_________________
“If God dwells inside us like some people say, I sure hope He likes enchiladas, because that's what He's getting”
-jack handy

I joined my first cocobolo back in '98, using polyurethane glue(Excel One back then, I think) after wiping with acetone, as suggest3ed at the time. It failed before I even managed to get the center joint reinforment glued in. Jointed it a second time, and went with my hunch, and glued it up with the same poly glue, but skipped the acetone wash, and it's still holding tight today. The rest of the vraces were glued with Titebond. And if a guitar's back ever had the right to fall apart, this one is it, as it's owned by a friend who takes it fishing, summer and winter, summer meaning in a hot boat, and winter meaning towed in a sleigh behind his snowmobile. The finish is completely shattered!, but not a joint has failed.

I have joined all my coco backs(40-50?) with polyurethane glues since(mostly ProBond), no wiping, with zero failures, and all the braces with hide glue. Blocks and linings with Titebond or hide glue(depends on what's nearest <bg>) No failures.

Just pretend it's just another rosewood, and glue it up. A fresh surface is a must, otherwise, nothing special...

Thanks for that tip Mario. I've suspected that poly glue might work, but never had the guts to try it.

I much prefer poly glue to epoxy, so I'll have to give it a try at some point when I come out of retirement eventually.Don Williams38980.3189467593

_________________
"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

Mario,
Do you use poly on any other backs or just Coco? Do you use poly for any other applications?
-j.

_________________
“If God dwells inside us like some people say, I sure hope He likes enchiladas, because that's what He's getting”
-jack handy

Yeah, most all rosewoods... Hide glue for mahogany and maple joins, as well as all top woods. I have tried poly with spruce and cedar tops, and it worked well; the idea was that since it is heat resistant, future bridge/bridgeplate removal would be safer. But it did leave a faint line, that did in fact look so much like a growth(grain) line in red spruce that I mistakened another line as the join, and glued that one onto the sides, off center <bg>. Point being, it works well to join all plates..., but hide glue is invisible on softwoods, and doesn't require strong clamping, which is the "trick" to gluing anything with a poly glue. The faoming tries to push the two pieces apart, and it needs strong clamping.