Official Luthiers Forum!

HI,

I was hoping to build the Woolson Neck Tenon Jig and after looking over the plans I'm uncertain as to how it would works. Not that it wouldn't. Would anyone have some pictures of the jig in action and/or directions for its use.

Thanks,

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Michael Lloyd

“I was born to ignorance, yes, and lesser poverties ...
I was born to privilege that I did not see ... I didn’t know it, but my way was paved” – John Gorka

if you use the search facility you will find a number of photos showing it in action.

it works very well.

I looked at that yesterday, Loyd.

The vertical deck below has the aluminum arm attached and it swings on a pivot allowing you to align that deck to the guitar body sitting on the upper horizontal deck.

The bridge location has a bolt that touches the bridge area on the aluminum arm. Once you have it in position you secure the lower pivoting deck to it's location. You are then ready to mount the neck and cut the tenon.

As state above just go to the forum archives and use the search function to find the Woolson Jig. Very nice. As someone mentions, the neck cavity is not cut on this jig, just the neck tenon.

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http://www.dickeyguitars.com

The purpose is to set the neck angle to each guitar body and project that angle all the way down to the bridge.
Check out this thread:
Tennon Jig Thread
Let me know if you have specific questions after you look at that thread.

I just (yesterday)finished building my version of the "Woolson Jig".
The plans are no longer available, but Lance was kind enough to send me a couple of close up pics & I went from there.
If you are building this rig, its easy to add a mortising slot, so both the mortise & the tenon can be cut easily & accurately on the same jig. You simply need to lengthen the jig & figure out a good way to hold the body in correct alignment to the underside of the horizontal deck. I have installed 4 hooks to the vertical plate & strap the body in place with a long bungee. (strip of inner tube rubber)
Simply align the mortise location marks with the slot in the deck & square the body to the upper deck using the soundboard centre line as the reference.
I don't have a body ready to try it yet, but it sure looks like it'll work fine. There'll probably be some fine tuning needed once I give the jig a trial run.
What I haven't figured out yet is the optimum space between the vertical arm & the saddle location on the top. (ie. how long is the bolt on the vertical arm?)
This will be easy enough to calculate, but any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Daniel. you shouldn't need much bolt. I usually only have .080" sticking out (depending on fingerboard thickness and purfling under it). So whatever the thickness you are using for the bar plus that amount will do fine.

This is great information and very much appreciated.

I'm looking forward to building the jig as from the pictures it's exactly what I was looking for and certianly easy to understand.

Thanks,

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Michael Lloyd

“I was born to ignorance, yes, and lesser poverties ...
I was born to privilege that I did not see ... I didn’t know it, but my way was paved” – John Gorka

I recently did 3 necks and it worked like a charm! I did a rough look at the neck to body fit afterwards and there will be very little tenon surgery to do once I get to that stage.

It works as advertised. Great jig, Paul! And great drawings, Michael.

BTW...why is the drawing no longer available...or is it just out of stock?

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com