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I want to glue a wood sole to the bottom of a hand plane. What's the best glue for wood > metal? 5 minute epoxy, or something else?

CrowDuck

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Chris Nielsen
Soquel, CA.

Permanent or temp?

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Thank You and Best To All

LarryH,

Permanent. I'm going to radius the sole after I bond a layer of maple.

CrowDuck

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Chris Nielsen
Soquel, CA.

Hmm... now I'm stuck. I asked that question and cannot think of what a good glue would be but it seems it must remain 'sticky' and not get brittle like 5 minute may.

Perhaps a high quality 30 minute like system 3? The good thing is there will very little force that will be trying to lift it off, only shear force which, with such a large surface area should be minimal.

Or what about JB weld? That stuff sticks to metal like crazy and I'm sure it would stick to wood as well.

Polyurethane such as Gorilla may also be a good choice but I've never tried gluing metal with it.

Let us know what you decide upon.

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Thank You and Best To All

JB Weld?

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Aoibeann

I think gorilla glue would work well but it does have a lot of foamy squeeze out if you use too much. Loctite construction adhesive works very well. I use loctite to glue 2X4 to steel wall and they can't be pulled apart after they cure.

I'd go for one of the longer cure epoxies. JB Weld will definately do the job. It's a metal filled epoxy formulated to stick to metal. You can often find it at your local auto store.

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Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

Titebond just came out with the strangest thing ever, a hot-melt polyurethane glue system. My shop-neighbours both have them and the stuff works really well on wood/wood joints.

They have two metal glues for it, as well, which they claim provide a 'stronger than wood' bond between wood and metal. I'll believe them, the wood stuff rips out only wood if you pull it apart after 30 minutes.

As some of the other mentions, it's polyurethane glue (although it doesn't foam) so I'd be inclined to try the stuff Ed's using if it were a one-time need.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

Making ourselves a fretboard sander, are we? I'd use JB Weld, 7th wonder of the adhesive world.

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D..

Gorilla glue bonds anything to anything according to Gorilla glue. All I'm
sure of is the only thing that takes it off your fingers is time.

Unless they're lying through ten sets of teeth on their website, JB Weld is also wonders one through six...why have I never heard of this stuff?

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

Hesh,

I agree, JB Weld was developed for high temp applications such as automotive engine use. But I've used it successfully on many low temp operations. It has great adhesion to clean metal, and drills/threads (coarser the better) well. I keep it in my shop at all times. But it's a one shot adhesive in the sense that it will not degrade with "normal" temperatures- steam temps of 212*F won't touch it.

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Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

As far I was able to read online, JB Weld should be the way to go...

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

There's also a product called Ray-Crete. It's a two-part epoxy-like system that is thick, like wood putty (comes in wide-mouth jars). Supposedly glues anything, and even works under water! Available in several tool/woodworking catalogs. I haven't tried it, 'cause I haven't needed it, but it looks pretty interesting.