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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 3:23 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Wed Sep 14, 2005 4:42 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Thailand
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi, I'm going to make a plywood drill press table for using with the Wagner planer and wondering what should be the proper size relative to the drill press size. My drill press's a bench top one with the distance from the column to chuck center of around 5".

Backs and sides planing will be my main task. Actually, I'm thinking about going it with the top as well but it's still a bit scary to me to run such machine on softwood, any advice on this?   

Thanks for any input.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 4:39 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 5:10 pm
Posts: 778
Location: Madison, WI
The table doesn't need to be that big. The one I use is probably 12-16" wide. Make sure you either make it with a fence you can move or flip the table to take it out of the equasion.
Use a block to hold the piece down just before it goes into the Saf-T-Planer. It helps if its got some wax on the bottom of it.
Make sure your blade is spinning fast enough. There are specs on the box. Its easier for the blades to clear the material if its on the higher end of the range.
Try not to take much more material than 3/4 of the Planer's width.
Don't take any more than 2-3mm off at a time.
Leave yourself some room on the thickness to scrape out swirl marks that the planer will leave.
Those are a few tips that help me.
Its fantastic tool. I love it.
-j.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 12:08 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:41 am
Posts: 290
Location: United States
Mine's about 1 foot deep by 2 feet wide on a 10" benchtop drill press.
Works great for me.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 12:31 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 4:18 pm
Posts: 98
Location: Australia
I made mine 900mm x 400mm x 25mm melamine (old desktop cut down to size).  I followed the Stewmac instructions loosely.  My fence is fixed at one end and clamped at the other.  Haven't used it for its intended purpose yet.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 3:26 pm 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:05 am
Posts: 9191
Location: United States
First name: Waddy
Last Name: Thomson
City: Charlotte
State: NC
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro

The speed is important for keeping the kickback down too.   I was boring some large holes, switched out the drill, put the Wagner in, and forgot to move the belt on the pullys.  It took a chunk out of the head on my neck.  It now has some implants that weren't planned. 


By the way, is there a straightedge that will go over an angle and maintain a straight line?  I lost my centerline on the head, and the implants are not perfectly straight.  I tried a laser, but there are too many variables.  Stainless rulers will do the bend, but they are not reliable on maintaining a straight line over the angle.  I think I got pretty close with the laser, but I don't want to create any problems by having the head off a little.  Maybe it would only be a cosmetic issue, and might not be noticed.


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