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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:09 pm 
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Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 3:14 am
Posts: 2590
Location: United States
[QUOTE=Rick Turner] The worst of all are the SCGC-like arrangements where you need a triple reverse upside down dog leg wrench made out of unobtanium.   

[/QUOTE]

Unobtanium...where can I obtain some o' that?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 11:58 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:37 pm
Posts: 499
Location: United States
Hi Rick,

I must admit, in my case, it is purely aesthetic. I just like the look of a peghead without a cover.
As for “practicality”, it hasn’t been difficult thus far to adjust through the sound hole. I do see
your point though, as being able to line up your eye on the neck as you’re adjusting the truss rod.

On another note;

Howard has mentioned there may be a problem with the bridge plate.

[QUOTE=Howard Klepper] Is that a curly maple bridge plate, Robert? If so, it's not a good idea; you would be making the plate more prone to chipping out, as well as less stiff.[/QUOTE]

Then I Said,

[QUOTE=robertD]
Thanks for chiming in! After reading your post, I went back to look up the receipt. I got it from
AC Woods last December. I was pretty sure I ordered a “Bridge Plate”. But, after looking at the
receipt, I see it says “Maple Head Plate”. I was wondering why I got 2 bridge plates out of it!
I should say that it is well quarter sawn, and very hard. Since I have a second one, that is the
same exact dimensions, would it be wise to test its stiffness? Or, should I replace it altogether?[/QUOTE]

Is this something I really need to be concerned with?

Robert

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:49 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 6:50 pm
Posts: 2711
Location: Victoria, BC
First name: John
Last Name: Abercrombie
Status: Amateur
Robert-
No doubt Howard or another 'experienced hand' will come back to help with a suggestion about the bridge plate.
Probably the optimum solution is to remove and replace the plate- you need to get some heat (and moisture?) in there to remove it, and you'll need to be careful not to damage the top while you're at it.
If it were my project, I'd probably laminate a thin layer of hardwood veneer over the existing plate, or just saturate the existing plate with CA in an attempt to toughen it up a bit....then remember not to repeat the mistake on my next guitar.

BTW, be sure to check the tape on the bottom of your trussrod to make sure it is well 'stuck'- if you get epoxy in there your rod won't be adjustable any more!

Cheers
John


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 5:16 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:58 am
Posts: 1667
Just go ahead and use it as-is, but don't do it again <g> It's not optimum(not just the flame, but since it is quarter sawn also), but it's not the end of the world. Another thing I'd drop next time is the little scallop forward of the X braces. Another no-no...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:26 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:37 pm
Posts: 499
Location: United States
Hi John,

Thanks for the suggestion, but, I do like the idea of leaving it right where it’s at.

Mario,

I got this top & back, pre-braced at the swap meet. Never gave any thought to whether, or not
the brace pattern was inferior in any way. Would it be wise to remove it?

Thanks again!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 3:39 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:58 am
Posts: 1667
don't do a thing. Just build it, take notes, and move on to building the next one. Looks like you're assembling the sum of everyone's seconds or sumthing.

Roll your own next time, too. Geeze... They always taste better that way....


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