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That should work don't you think? I normally use padouk, or narra, one of the pterocarpus guys but I seem to be temporarily out. But I do have osage orange and it is stiff and reasonably light and tough and it taps beautifully. I want some consensual validation here. Do I hear an Amen?John Kinnaird38616.6748148148

Stiff, reasonably light and taps beautifully...that's what I 've been telling my wife. [

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

[QUOTE=John Kinnaird] That should work don't you think? I normally use padouk, or narra, or of the pterocarpus guys but I seem to be temporarily out. But I do have osage orange and it is stiff and reasonably light and tough and it taps beautifully. I want some consensual validation here. Do I hear an Amen?[/QUOTE]

Tim McKnight swears by it.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

I've used it for uke fingerboards and bridges with
success.

Geoff

John the osage should work just fine. If you want some padauk let me know I'll save some cutoffs for you.

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Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
http://www.rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store
The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498

I read in one of my wood books that osage orange is the only wood (tested by the writer) that shows absolutely no effect from humidity changes.

Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

AMEN, brother!!

And I've got some Osage when you run out of that.

KBW

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

I've used it too and I like it for bridge plates.

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Mark Swanson
Swanson Guitars
http://www.MarkSwansonMusic.com

Steve, Bob, Thanks for the offers. Looks like we OLFers should never have to go without bridge plates.

Bob
I think I am going to go the osage route for a while, untill such time as I get myself another plank of padouk but I sure do appreciate the offer.

I also appreciate the comments. I am feeling good about this decision, which is a real good thing since the osage is now stuck to the top.

Kpjm

Kpjm? Huh?

Kinnaird pyjamas?

Kinnaird plays jaded music?

Kant plies jaundiced mush?

Huh?

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

sejsy yjr jrvl str upi ftohomh sy/

vsm'y upi drr yjsy o jsbr ,u gomhrtd om yjr etpmh [pdoyopm/ str upi ,slomh gim p g,r?

kpjm

John

I think there is something wrong with your keyboard. RussellR38616.757337963

I think it is backward code for

    Mr. John P. Kinnaird

Or the Mighty J.P.K.
or...........


Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

I think it is backward code for

    Mr. John P. Kinnaird

Or the Mighty J.P.K.
or...........

Whoops, something wrong with my keyboard, too, I guess.
Ronold man38616.801875

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

Guys
   I think there may bw somtwhing wraojjg ddoy j,u gomhrtnpstf/
kpjm

Osage works well for bridge plates but inspect the wood [carefully] before using it. If it has any dark brown streaks in it DON'T use it as Osage is prone to cracking along those streaks. Must be an inherant weakness in the wood or mineral deposits or mystical stuff ???

I also prefer to use skew cuts like this ////////// as opposed to a true QS piece. QS will work if that is all you have though. Skew cut Madagascar is another great wood for bridge plates too.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Oh, ok bro.
Thag melw ommdumwf fpps wxwmr.

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

At the risk of hijacking yet another thread, Tim, is this what is known as Riff Sawn wood? I was under the impression that 30? to 60? (or something like that) was Riff sawn wood. Any thoughts?

Yes, you are correct Paul. It is rift sawn. I use the term Skew cut and rift interchangably and maybe this is incorrect on my part? Sorry for the confusion that's why I drew the little ///////// diagram to reflect the grain orientation.

(Off topic ...... FYI - we decided not to go to the show in the midwest that we discussed earlier.)

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Is it really rift sawn lumber?

I usually just take a q/s piece and orient it so the grain runs non parallel to the bridge pins and somewhat in the opposite direction of the top grain (not purely 90 degrees because of the bridge pin issue).

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

I, too, have used Osage in the past, and found it to work well. I like the skew cut, in any bridge plate, as it's the most resistent to splitting. Osage is pretty split resisitant anyway; far better in that respect than Padauk.

The only drawback I found with Osage is that it's ring-porous, and the ring lines can be relatively soft. I was always worried that the bal end would land on one of those softer lines and wear through.

About four years ago I got some Persimmon, the American member of the ebony family. It's as crack resistant as Osage, and as hard, but it's diffuse porous with tiny pores, so there are no soft spots. That's what I use for bridge plates now.

I have noticed no particular acoustic effect one way or the other.

My take on 'rift sawn' is cutting a log entirely from one aspect. That is say using a band mill and starting at the top of the log and continuing to slice boards off until you are at the bottom. The result is a bunch of flat sawn boards, a few quarter sawn boards and a bunch of boards that are in between.

Shane

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Canada