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   Hello folks. I am just about ready to start filling in little cracks and imperfections in my rosette (these were created with a cheap circle cutter before I build my famous, beautiful circle cutting jig...).
   I was wondering which would give better results. System Three Epoxy or the melt-in clear lacquer stick. (although I know I should just test on scrap first...) I'd just like to pick your brains on the matter. Thanks in advance for your replies.

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

Alain, Please take this with a grain of salt but I have heard and have had good luck with a small drop of CA glue in the gap and sanding the area. The sanding dust gets trapped in the small cavities and CAN make them virtually disappear. This depends on a ton of factors and a rosette may be the worst place to try si=uch a thing since you have chance of filling with many difeerent colors of sanding dust. It worked great on a fret board and worked great on a sitka top where the purfling had small gaps. I'm sure that those that know of these thngs will chime in shortly.

Larry

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Thank You and Best To All

C.A. is i no no on Spruce unless you have a shellac sealer on .
   It wicks in and discoloures the spruce

KiwiCraig

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CRAIG LAWRENCE of AUSTRALIA
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[QUOTE=KiwiCraig]

C.A. is i no no on Spruce unless you have a shellac sealer on .
   It wicks in and discoloures the spruce
[/QUOTE]

Based on my own experiences, I'd have to say it's even worse with cedar and redwood. I've gotten where I always lay down a wash coat of shellac before I use CA for gap filling. Just the opposite with epoxy, from what I understand, though. Apparently, epoxy does not adhere well to shellac. (I'm basing the latter on what I've read here, and not from personal experience.)

Best,

Michael

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Live to Play, Play to Live

But then again I glue all my rosettes in with CA and fill any small gaps. Yes you do need to be careful. I take some CA accelerator and with a small paint brush apply it to the top on the inside and outside of the channel (not inside the rosette channel, it is brushed on the top near the inside and outside edge of the channel). I let it dry for a min or so and then carefully soak the rosette (mine are wood)with thin CA. I do my best to avoid getting it on the top. The accelerator keeps the CA from soaking into the top. Sand it flat and fill the gaps with CA after. I apply the accelerator to the top in the area of the gap before I fill. I have only had trouble with one cedar top discolouring, and I got a little carried away with the CA on that one. I know other builders who glue rosettes with CA as well. It works great, just be careful.

I guess I should add another word of warning that the accelerator can cause the CA to turn white (as you probably know). Don't put the accelerator right on the gap you want to fill, just the top around that area. Let the accelerator dry for a few min and then fill. You may be safer to go with System 3 at this point. It takes longer but you won't have to worry about these issues.

JoshJosh H38728.5618287037

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Josh House

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