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Hey guys, I'm in the process of a de-fret/fingerboard level/re-fret on an OM...the LMI "Martin-style" (I can't get AWAY from these things ) doesn't work too well...I think the neck may've taken a "set" in a slightly relieved position...I have approx. .019" of relief at the 6th fret position right now...I'm thinking of going a size up on the new fret tangs...my question is, will all this work out OK? Or should I keep taking the nut and extension ends of the f/b down to try and get less relief before refretting? TIA.

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Did you know that the Martin Set-up specs for med low on OMs calles for .08 relief at the 8th. It must be more efficint ie less rejects or reworks form the floor that way

I should add that the relief there is with no frets and unstrung...

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If my repair I would sand level deepen the slots where required and go from there. Be sure to check the neck set angle in relation to the bridge and saddle befor you start leveling. With that much relief un-stung and de-freted the neck may be out. By the way tha is not relief, that is a nine iron divot

Michael, yes, I thought about the neck set...I checked it when I got the frets out and the straightedge hit the top of the unsaddled bridge just right...of course, the straightedge was riding on the 1-5 frets and the 11th-20th frets with the relief in the middle!    So, I decided to leave the neck set alone til I'd done about a yard of sanding level...At this point I'll still be able to level both ends toward the middle and have enough land underneath to deepen the slots...how about the compression fretting idea? I just don't want to add a variable in there not knowing if I'll have to remove them and redo...man, I hate that LMI truss rod! I thought I was the only one who'd bought one, but apparently not...I would think the rod should at least AFFECT the relief, but not this one...I guess at the worst, I could heat the f/b and clamp the whole business to a flat surface to cool?

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