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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:51 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Arnt, someone else asked, but I too want to fully understand this tool you've made. I appreciate it's simplicity, but don't understand the adjustment in and out. I understand that the router has an adustment for depth.

What I'm wondering about is the width. Can you explain or offer another pic or two? TIA, Bruce

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 12:15 pm 
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Koa
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Bruce, Arnt,

I'll jump in here. It's the middle of the night in Norway!

I built one modelled after Arnt's, along with a vise using pony clamps to hold the guitar body on the front of my bench while routing.

The large piece with the bearings sits in a slot in the base (the base being that which the trimmer is bolted to) and can be moved forward or back (north and south in the pic).

In using it, I found it helpful to hold it by the piece with the bearings (I have a small lam trimmer), not by the trimmer. Simplicity in itself, and worked very well. Thanks, Arnt!burbank38756.8456018519

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 3:14 pm 
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Hey Pat, I think Arnt clamps his in a vise on the bearing unit and runs the guitar over it instead of it over the guitar.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 3:53 pm 
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Koa
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Rod,

That's interesting. So it functions like the Guitar Jigs one, right?

How's the family newbie?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 5:13 pm 
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Yes, very similar to the Guitar Jig/Larivee Jig.

He is good. He is gaining weight like any good boy does. We are tired but of course cherishing every moment. Family of 4 is gooooood.

PS. Pat, I love your signature line of 2 things learned. Makes me smile everytime I read it.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 6:50 pm 
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Hey guys (just logged on, it's 08:30 here now), yes it functions like the jigs you mention. I saw a similar system in use at Martin, and "Factory Friday" at Taylor and Julius Borges website shows the same principle in use as well. The bottom part of the jig can be moved in-out in the rabbet in the top part, and is secured with a wing nut and a screw that is tapped into the top part.

I don't have a picture of it in use, but here is another snapshot of it:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 12:05 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Okay Arnt. So there is no micrometer adjustment, just trial and error on the side depth adjust.

We run into this on our StewMac circle cutters, Just a screw, trial and error to set the thing. A screw mechanism like on my chainsaw is all that's needed.

I love the look of your tool, I've never used plastic stuff like this. What is it and who supplies it?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 12:16 am 
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You are right Bruce, it's trial and error. However, I made the rabbet pretty tight, so I can tap lightly with a hammer for "micro" adjustment, sort of like a wooden plane. Sounds crude, but it's not that bad, it IS a "practice on scrap" deal of course. I thought about adding a screw adjustment of some sort, but unless the tolerances were pretty tight I feared that the backlash / slop would make it unpractical. I'm sure you could come up with something that works though.

The material is 15 mm acrylic / plexi (is this the same thing?). Source: Dumpster outside a bookstore that was remodelling ! I have enough for jigs and templates for years...

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:23 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Got my overcoat, I'm on the prowl tonight! Thanks guys.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:06 am 
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Koa
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You'll have more success using a polycarbonate material like Lexan that with an acrylic (Plexiglass)
Plexiglass is brittle & doesn't machine near as well as Lexan. It will often break when drilling holes.
CA glue works well if you need to glue pieces together. (Like if you are adding a screw type adjuster)
Lexan is great for making LOTS of cool jigs & fixtures.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:57 am 
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Daniel, I'm sure you are right. The stuff I have can chip when you drill and does not like the bandsaw too much. To avoid the chipping you just have to let the drill do the work and not use much force, or drill from two sides. No problem with the table saw or sander though and it is obviously very tough; jigs made with it do not wear out easily. But the best part for me was of course that it was free!

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 1:50 pm 
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I just finished doing some electrical work at GE's lexan plant in indiana.It's an amazing place bigger than a lot of refineries. Some of the chemicals used in the process are downright scary. I heard that most of their product is going to be used to manufacture armor for military vehicls.
I use it for templates and fixtures - definately much better than acrylic.

Al


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 2:23 am 
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[QUOTE]Plexiglass is brittle & doesn't machine near as well as Lexan. It will often break when drilling holes.
[/QUOTE]

There are special bits for plexiglas. They make it a pleasure to drill instead of scary with regular bits.

LarryLarryH38758.4341782407

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