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I aquired an older table saw. Its power cord was cracked and looking ratty, so I decided to just replace it all. I ran into a puzzle when I opened the switch up. Its a 220V motor. The switch has three places to put wires into across the top and three across the bottom, as well as the ground off to the sides. My thoughts were okay, wires will line up from each other, no biggie. But the switch has a wire that runs from the center top terminal around the switch to the far right terminal on the bottom, causing one of the cord wires to be crossed as well. This doesn't make any sense to me, unless this is done to activate something with in the switch mechanism itself.
Anyone shed some light on this for me?
Thanks.

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Aoibeann

Lillian, Welcome to the OLF!

I don't have a clue, but someone will be along later or in the morning I am sure to help you through the process.

Mike
White Oak, Texas

Thanks for the welcome and the honesty. Both are appreciated.

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Aoibeann

I would just wire the new cord to the same terminals as the old ones. I think if you post the table saw brand and model type you'll probably get some response. I'm sure someone on hear will be able to help. If you have a camera upload some photos of the switch and saw that will help.

Hi Lillian, and since I haven't seen you here before, welcome to the OLF.

It is important to wire the switch the same way it was. We have an electrician or two here on the OLF, so perhaps if you could snap a good photo and post it, they could help.

The switches and motors on most table saws are typically made to be able to be run either 110V or 220V. So this is the most basic reason why it needs to be wired correctly, along with the motor. The motor will have a diagram on it somewhere to tell you which color wires to hook up and where. The switch should too, but if not, perhaps the electricians here (Bruce!) can help.

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

Welcome to the OLF Lillian! Sorry i can't help but hang on, it's still early mornin', the electrician folks should be here shortly!

Sounds like a mag lock style relay switch to me - thats what is on most higher grade table saws and tools that run on 220v - you know the kind of switch that has an on button and an off button . The reason there is a wire that wraps around is likely that the relay is operating from the line voltage, ie, the coil that activates the switch to lock the contacts requires 110 or even 220 to work. I have built my own mag locks on tools that only came with toggles to begin with, its a vast improvement. Actually was just at the local junk shop the other day and picked up a couple extra AllenBradley (good ones) on/off switch boxes (without the relay portion, but i have spare of those as well)

I would need to see a picture/wiring diagram to help you out here. They are fairly simple devices.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

What Don Williams said: there should be a diagram on the motor, typically color/number coded that will tell you exactly how to wire it for the voltage you're wanting to use, 110 or 220. Best bet is to take the best photo you can, post it, find the diagram and let some of these folks help you out.

Oh, and welcome to the OLF. We're glad you found us.

Bill

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Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

That plate will have the wiring/voltage diagram for the motor windings only Bill - I have never seen one with the diagram for the switch, especially if its a mag log relay type.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I need to run into Seattle for a couple of hours. When I get back I'll try to get a decent picture of the switch. I'm almost positive it's a mag switch. Its an older Grizzly cabinet saw. The motor is 220V only. Gotta run.

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Aoibeann

All right I lied, I still have a few minutes. So....

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Aoibeann

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Aoibeann

Can you take a pic a little further back, showing the wiring coming in .. its definitely a mag lock, and should be easy to wire in a new plug and cable. Is the existing plug a 3 or 4 prong ??? If its only 3, then its really simple as you basically have the two legs required for 220v and ground. There will be no neutral unless its a 4 prong. You should be making connections to the side with the terminals marked L1 etc. The T side terminals go to the motor.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Cutler Hammers website shows the correct wiring for this manual starter when used for single phase.

Power is connected to L1, and L2

Motor is connected to T1, and T3

Jumper from T2 to L3

Yours is hooked up slightly different, but will work just the same. Just replace the two power leads where they came from ( looks like L1, and L3) leave the motor leads and jumper where they are, and you'll be fine.

AlA Peebels38899.5552893519

The motor leads weren't connected, just stuffed in there. Which is what prompted me to post my question. I didn't even think about looking at their website.
Thanks even one for your help. I should have the saw up and running this weekend, which will put me one giant step towards actually building my first. Let the addiction begin!

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Aoibeann